Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i called UAS and got a quote for $250 to install a split dump/front pipe, high flow cat and intake pipe.....the pipe that connects to the front of the turbo and AFM

they said it would take 2 and a half hours to do everything

just thought the price was abit steep....was looking at $200 max

anyone know places that could do it abit cheaper......or am i better off getting it properly done for $250?

thanks

you pay for what you get go to UAS which is a shop with a good rep and customer service etc etc you will pay top dollar, but you can have confidence in what they do. pay a hundred dollars to a backyard mechanica and they could **** up you car and they wont have insurance.

ask tuffy mufflers or something. Don't need a performance shop to fit a pre-made exhaust system. Probably a bit cheaper

agree.

UAS is excellent and they were my workshop of choice back in the day... but this aint a specialised job. any exhaust place ought to be able to pull it off

get it done anywhere u like its an easy job, you dont need to get it done at a performance workshop. plenty of places charge closer to $80/hr rather than $100@uas which makes a difference in itself.

do u have a dump pipe gasket? thats worth around $30 from nissan which they may have taken into account when quoting you. its not bad to re use it if it is in good condition but its safer to replace it.

the reason i was going to goto UAS was because i live 5 -10 mins away

not too sure what the dump pipe gasket is but i thought i could re-use the stock parts

i was going to DIY but i dont have any spare time...i figured that im paying UAS $100 an hour to change some bolts around

thanks guys for ur opinions

im probably going to goto a local exhaust shop which should be cheaper

Um, as everyone else said, you get what you pay for. whether you want a workshop to look after your car, or do the quick and dirty and get you out of there ASAP.

Basically, you have to factor in gaskets. New bolts.

What happens if they break a bolt? it is highly likely that a turbo bolt will be broken. Then they have to remove that bolt by drilling it out and using an easy out.

that all takes time.

Also, half the time, the "bolt on" things don't bolt straight on. Mine didn't.

we had to grind some pipe that was sticking out of the flange. Still, the pipe angle was wrong. I had to return the pipe and get another one.

I did all this myself at home.

Lets just not count the time to jack it and put it on stands, since the workshop has a hoist.

It still took me a whole day including driving around buying things and swapping the pipe. I'm not a nooby either.

I guess that's why I like to get a complete quote, rather than an hour based quote.

Sometimes hour based quotes can end up cheaper, but if you pay for time and somethign goes wrong, the meter really starts ticking.

250 may seem steep providing everything bolts straight up and no dramas, but usually there are.

If UAS had to spend 4 hours doin git, then suddenly that 250 seems like good value :blush:

I got quoted $1000 from Liverpool exhaust to fit a dump pipe and front pipe to R32 GTR, this is NOT including the Cat , and im supplying Trust dump+front pipe ( which should bolt straight on , no probs) nd the cat.

Thats for comin'...

I got quoted $1000 from Liverpool exhaust to fit a dump pipe and front pipe to R32 GTR, this is NOT including the Cat , and im supplying Trust dump+front pipe ( which should bolt straight on , no probs) nd the cat.

Thats for comin'...

have you ever tried to put dump pipes on a gtr?

castle hill exhausts is in the same complex as far as i remember, go ask them how much, dont know of any other places local to you.

I got a quote from my local exhaust shop for $150 to install everything which i think is a reasonable price

just thought i let u guys know from previous experience......i used to have a stalling problem with my atom bov and bought a HKS EIDS which is designed to stop stalling from atmo bov's

so i went to UAS and all they did was solder like 4 wires to the stock ecu and too kthem about 20mins max to solder the wires and it cost me $100 which i thought the price was very steep

just sharing my experience

i used to have a stalling problem with my atom bov and bought a HKS EIDS which is designed to stop stalling from atmo bov's

You chose to have an atmo BOV so you pay the price.

so i went to UAS and all they did was solder like 4 wires to the stock ecu and too kthem about 20mins max to solder the wires and it cost me $100 which i thought the price was very steep

Most guys here are DIY freaks (including myself). DIY makes you appreciatte your Skyline owning exprience so much more. Built...not bought.

Bet you think twice now that you've spent nearly $500 (EID $160, BOV $150, Install $100) just to get a loud pssht sound. can get a FMIC these days for that price.

learn how to do it urself...your best bet is to get ur mates over for some of the action as well.

Allthough what "mr ed32" is offering is pretty damn good in comparison.

i would have done it myself but its much eaiser with a hoist and a large tool selection...

in saying that i sucessfully completed a total coilover installation including front bushes in my driveway.... easy as pie, saved alot of cash too!!!!!!!!!

Ill have a go at FMIC install :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...