Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i called UAS and got a quote for $250 to install a split dump/front pipe, high flow cat and intake pipe.....the pipe that connects to the front of the turbo and AFM

they said it would take 2 and a half hours to do everything

just thought the price was abit steep....was looking at $200 max

anyone know places that could do it abit cheaper......or am i better off getting it properly done for $250?

thanks

you pay for what you get go to UAS which is a shop with a good rep and customer service etc etc you will pay top dollar, but you can have confidence in what they do. pay a hundred dollars to a backyard mechanica and they could **** up you car and they wont have insurance.

ask tuffy mufflers or something. Don't need a performance shop to fit a pre-made exhaust system. Probably a bit cheaper

agree.

UAS is excellent and they were my workshop of choice back in the day... but this aint a specialised job. any exhaust place ought to be able to pull it off

get it done anywhere u like its an easy job, you dont need to get it done at a performance workshop. plenty of places charge closer to $80/hr rather than $100@uas which makes a difference in itself.

do u have a dump pipe gasket? thats worth around $30 from nissan which they may have taken into account when quoting you. its not bad to re use it if it is in good condition but its safer to replace it.

the reason i was going to goto UAS was because i live 5 -10 mins away

not too sure what the dump pipe gasket is but i thought i could re-use the stock parts

i was going to DIY but i dont have any spare time...i figured that im paying UAS $100 an hour to change some bolts around

thanks guys for ur opinions

im probably going to goto a local exhaust shop which should be cheaper

Um, as everyone else said, you get what you pay for. whether you want a workshop to look after your car, or do the quick and dirty and get you out of there ASAP.

Basically, you have to factor in gaskets. New bolts.

What happens if they break a bolt? it is highly likely that a turbo bolt will be broken. Then they have to remove that bolt by drilling it out and using an easy out.

that all takes time.

Also, half the time, the "bolt on" things don't bolt straight on. Mine didn't.

we had to grind some pipe that was sticking out of the flange. Still, the pipe angle was wrong. I had to return the pipe and get another one.

I did all this myself at home.

Lets just not count the time to jack it and put it on stands, since the workshop has a hoist.

It still took me a whole day including driving around buying things and swapping the pipe. I'm not a nooby either.

I guess that's why I like to get a complete quote, rather than an hour based quote.

Sometimes hour based quotes can end up cheaper, but if you pay for time and somethign goes wrong, the meter really starts ticking.

250 may seem steep providing everything bolts straight up and no dramas, but usually there are.

If UAS had to spend 4 hours doin git, then suddenly that 250 seems like good value :blush:

I got quoted $1000 from Liverpool exhaust to fit a dump pipe and front pipe to R32 GTR, this is NOT including the Cat , and im supplying Trust dump+front pipe ( which should bolt straight on , no probs) nd the cat.

Thats for comin'...

I got quoted $1000 from Liverpool exhaust to fit a dump pipe and front pipe to R32 GTR, this is NOT including the Cat , and im supplying Trust dump+front pipe ( which should bolt straight on , no probs) nd the cat.

Thats for comin'...

have you ever tried to put dump pipes on a gtr?

castle hill exhausts is in the same complex as far as i remember, go ask them how much, dont know of any other places local to you.

I got a quote from my local exhaust shop for $150 to install everything which i think is a reasonable price

just thought i let u guys know from previous experience......i used to have a stalling problem with my atom bov and bought a HKS EIDS which is designed to stop stalling from atmo bov's

so i went to UAS and all they did was solder like 4 wires to the stock ecu and too kthem about 20mins max to solder the wires and it cost me $100 which i thought the price was very steep

just sharing my experience

i used to have a stalling problem with my atom bov and bought a HKS EIDS which is designed to stop stalling from atmo bov's

You chose to have an atmo BOV so you pay the price.

so i went to UAS and all they did was solder like 4 wires to the stock ecu and too kthem about 20mins max to solder the wires and it cost me $100 which i thought the price was very steep

Most guys here are DIY freaks (including myself). DIY makes you appreciatte your Skyline owning exprience so much more. Built...not bought.

Bet you think twice now that you've spent nearly $500 (EID $160, BOV $150, Install $100) just to get a loud pssht sound. can get a FMIC these days for that price.

learn how to do it urself...your best bet is to get ur mates over for some of the action as well.

Allthough what "mr ed32" is offering is pretty damn good in comparison.

i would have done it myself but its much eaiser with a hoist and a large tool selection...

in saying that i sucessfully completed a total coilover installation including front bushes in my driveway.... easy as pie, saved alot of cash too!!!!!!!!!

Ill have a go at FMIC install :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...