Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok I just had my r33 gtst tuned with a few nice new bits like a new turbo, dump pipe, AFM, injectors and fuel pump, FMIC etc

ran it on 1bar and noticed the packs we dodgy but still got 260 out of it from 175 at 0.7bar on the previous setup. I dont pay too much attention of the dyno result but I got a gain of about ~90kwatw which I was happy with. I just wacked in the spitfires and will run it up tomorrow.

of course this is max power..my aim was good avg. power and some good low down torque - havn't got the graph but will run it again tomorrow.

do you think I should leave it or should I tune it for a bit less? I assume that if I don't ever really hammer it too much to 1bar - i.e. half throttle most of the time then it wont really cause me too many dramas. I actually only aimed for about 220...

Just intrested in some feedback and thinking about traction issues as my new wheels havn't arrived form Japan yet....

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128738-how-much-is-too-much/
Share on other sites

Can never have too much :happy:

By 260 are you talking kw? With what you mentioned & because you are over east that's what I'm guessing, which is pretty close to what I have/had. My car just seems to run perfect, almost as if I have traction control!! The only wheelspin is just before redline in first or second, it didn't take long for the tyres on there to be worn but I put on some toyo t1-r's & they were great.

yeah 260rwkw with doge packs. I have been focusing on the low to mid range as I'm not intrested in high end power as I don't take it to the max often. I will get all the exact details and the plots tomorrow when I head down after work. then u guys can have more info.

I told them to tune it the best the can for the moment...

Edited by khunjeng

What you need to consider is what you are setting the car up for, Drift, Drag or Curcit.

With that much power I wouldnt go anymore because your car is going to be a bitch to drive on the street, Altho some ppl like that :happy:

Also have you maxed out the turbo? Maybe you should look at some lumpy cams and do some head work then bump up the boost.

What you need to consider is what you are setting the car up for, Drift, Drag or Curcit.

With that much power I wouldnt go anymore because your car is going to be a bitch to drive on the street, Altho some ppl like that :happy:

Also have you maxed out the turbo? Maybe you should look at some lumpy cams and do some head work then bump up the boost.

this is just for street use until I get the bug to do some track work...I will need to do some more work on the setup before then.

I'm not really intrested in more power. I think I have enough..I was actually considering lowering it but I will drive it first and see how it goes.

Edited by khunjeng

ok.

well I havn't got all the details of my turbo yet cos the guy who did it wasn't there when I picked up the car. I will have the full sepcs on monday. However is has a stock housing with a BB xx turbine plus some bigger inlets/outlets lol I'm not a guru on turbos - details to come.

Initially I was aiming for about 220 atw but when all the following mods were on it pumped out a fair bit more. Also I picked it up late so the dyno results will be posted when the some1 there gets a working printer! hehe

The first dyno run output 275kw and around 440nm of torque which was impressive. However at about 4500 the emange wasn't coping and there is a flat spot...but picks up again after 5000. Tried to smooth it out but essentailly the emanage couldn't do the job so power FC here we come..the dyno reuslts were intresting - sorry for no pics.

De-tuned it to about 250 to smooth out the response...the torque was great up to the 4500-5000 mark where the emanage screws around...generally it runs like a rocket!

anyway list of mods:

Custom turbo upgrade (lol details to follow)

Bosh fuel pump

VG30 AF meter

Apexi front pipe

cat back exhaust incl 730CFM cat + HKS muffler

600x300x76 FMIC

Emanage - when u see the dyno you will see it needs ot go!

Boost controller - just a manual bleed valve which shows it need to be replaced

Spitfires

Injectors - need the specs but I think they are 550cc?? sounds right or is this std.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...