Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det With Nos?

Dush

By Dush,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dush Mentor

Dush

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys I’m thinking about running a shot of Nos on My R33 Skyline.

I don’t know how the Engine will react to this so I’m just asking around if anyone has done it or if they can give me some advice.

The only modification that’s car done to my car is:

• FMIC

• 3’’ Turbo back Exhaust with High Flow cat

• Standard turbo High flowed

• Heavy duty clutch (extreme)

• Bosh 044 pump

At 7psi she pushed 182kw@the wheels on Dr drifts dyno.

I was thinking of a dry system and a 70hp shot of nos.

I dont want to do much engine work, i was told that the engine is good enough for around 300kw @ the wheels??

I don’t know much about NOS systems. So any help will be grateful.

Thank you very much:D

Edited by Dush
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129203-rb25det-with-nos/
Share on other sites
Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

It would be a cool thing to have in your interior so you can 'hit the NOS'. But seriously maybe a dual stage boost controller set between stock and about 14psi will have a similar effect. Cant see the practicality of a nitrous system especially the defect factor

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

Regardless of what people have been telling you, you can run 100 wet shot comfortably, all you need is fuel pump upgrade which you already have, Aftermarket engine management e.g PFC and the Kit. with the correct tune the car will make around 250rwkw and be capable of mid 11sec passes. This is not a toy for the street though. and we will soon see how heavy duty your clutch is. You can buy wet kits starting from $990 which include everything to get started, just need to add bottle warmer $ pressure guage to tune. Dry systems require the fuel to be added through the injector rail and sometimes require the upgrade of injectors. is not something you can fine tune urself unless you have extensive knowledge of tuning with PFC or ECU you decide to use. People on this forum have been running the bottle for a couple of seasons know with no engine failures. By far the best bang for your buck.

Hey guys I’m thinking about running a shot of Nos on My R33 Skyline.

I don’t know how the Engine will react to this so I’m just asking around if anyone has done it or if they can give me some advice.

The only modification that’s car done to my car is:

• FMIC

• 3’’ Turbo back Exhaust with High Flow car

• Standard turbo High flowed

• Heavy duty clutch (extreme)

• Bosh 044 pump

At 7psi she pushed 182kw@the wheels on Dr drifts dyno.

I was thinking of a dry system and a 70hp shot of nos.

I dont want to do much engine work, i was told that the engine is good enough for around 300kw @ the wheels??

I don’t know much about NOS systems. So any help will be grateful.

Thank you very much:D

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

As long as you are able to adjust ignition timing with it, then yes it would work. need to pull total timing out when the gas is on. A/F you adjust with fuel and bottle pressure & different pill sizes. In saying that if you are looking to get maximum performance out of your car a stand alone may be necessary as to get full potential out of the tune before you add the gas. Can run 1 bar of boost and 100 shot on standard engine with standard injectors etc.

so to run a 50-70hp shot of gas you would need a Stand alone computer and a piggy back wouldnt work???????????????
Edited by BezerkR32
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

Get the car tuned first, then pull around 4deg timing total out. use pills recommended in kit. these are on the fat side. start from there. Start with 900psi bottle pressure. will need a Air fuel meter to do this. best done on track. Not familiar with too many shops in Melbourne as i am from wollongong but buy kit from Barney at VPW and he should be able to advise you on who too see.

Thankx for your help guys.. i get a ECU first befor i strap the bottle.. is their any good workshops in Melbourne that have extensive knowledge in tuning nos systems?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...