Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh so i got canaried a while ago for having "racing slicks" on my car (were in fact SPMAXX's, slightly low on tread but still legal) Got that cleared, now the fugn canary won't come off. Ive got the majority of the paper off, but the underlying sticky stuff (sticky paper) and the glue stuff wont come off.. Ive tried, petrol, metho, scraping, nail polish remover and eucalyptus oil and besides getting high, had no success.

Any one got any other suggestions on how to remove it?

I was thinking of paying the $ to get it professionally cleaned and forwarding the bill to the victorian police or vicroads, any one reckon this could work?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129498-removing-a-canary/
Share on other sites

If you can find it (not sure what shops to buy it, we have it at work) but 3M have a product called Goo remover it's in a red can, it's the shit for removing anything sticky from anything :dry:

As for forwarding the bill to vicroads no I doubt it will work but it's worth a try :)

Edited by Omurru

Also that fat dude big kev had a goo remover thats good. theres a couple of options you can use.

* Brakkeklean by CRC will remove almost anything (good tip : this gets almost any car related stain from clothing, grease, oil and brake fluid).

* Citrus Oil Spray : the cleaning power of citric acid is amazing.

* Prepsol or Tryco fluid - these solvents work a treat.

There ya have it. I would be trying Brakkeklean 1st.

if you soak the back of it for 5-10mins it will come off.

Get a sponge, wet it, press it against the sticker.

Do this probably 5-6 times as the water will run out of the sponge... warm water also helps.

And then it will just peel off, and the glue should just wipe off aswell

ahh ok did the water method with a cloth for like 10 minutes (first time i tried left it only like 1 minute), now alll i got is a sticky residue and a couple of little bits of paper, will try some wd40 to get thar crap off

Err and are big kev products still around now? He died of a heartattack a few years back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...