Jump to content
SAU Community

Atf In My Gearbox

femno
 Share

Recommended Posts

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

So i decide to service my car today (R32 GTR)....drop all the fluids etc etc. Go to undo the gearbox filler cap and RED yes RED oil comes pouring out the filler. Then drop the drain plug and even more. Undo the transfer case drain plugs...a drip comes out.

The transfer case is leaking (more importantly - pumping) ATF into my gearbox...has anyone had this experience??! No wonder it was hard selecting gears...

Gearbox is out...pulled the case off it cant see anything obvious. Can anyone recommend a good place to take my transfer for repair? Cos obviously the main seal or pump gasket is leaking...

The car has done 1,100km since a full rebuild, and the transfer was reco'd, i have no idea what is was like before.

Any help or experiences appreciated,

Cheers,

Mat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129547-atf-in-my-gearbox/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I bought a VS 5ltr 5speed many years ago when they were around 3years old, it had a shifting problem when cold (that I noticed upon test driving) and on higher than normal rpm gear changes (that I also noticed on test driving) they said no problems they will sort it out.

They being... 'au....... motors"

Upon purchasing the car I noticed the notchy, slight crunch and slip out of 5th gear was still there so I took the car back for warranty.

I got the car back and it was fixed. No more crunch and no more slip out of 5th. Later down the track it started slipping out of 5th, I discovered it was a factory recall and apparently a hub problem, they simply thew a stiffer spring in it. they put me off until it was out of warranty saying it was ok then once out of warranty didn't want a bar of me.

Interestingly the gearbox died just out of warranty (syncro's were shot and bearings stuffed) and upon dropping the gearbox oil it was discovered atf fluid was thrown in it. Bastards..

'The great great guys they were indeed'

The extended warranty I purchased with the car was not 100% honored as they stated the failure was caused by the use of atf fluid. So I had to shell out for half of the repair. ;)

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
  • Author
Posted
it much oil can make it hard to change gear.. no matter what viscosity (sp) it is.

Thankyou for that - there is nothing wrong with my syncros! to have the oil of the gearbox AND the transfer fluid is way too much..

Anyways this is not about hard gear selection, tis about the transfer case and pumping fluid into the gearbox!

cokey Explorer

cokey

Posted
Posted
femno I guess the point is did you fill the gearbox, or did someone put ATF in before hand, and maybe the xfer case has a boring normal leak :P

Maybe its not ATF ?

You may have just drained an expensive amount of Redline heavy / light shockproof gearbox oil !

Just a thought.

cokey

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Maybe its not ATF ?

You may have just drained an expensive amount of Redline heavy / light shockproof gearbox oil !

Just a thought.

cokey

Just because its called Redline doesnt mean its red you know!

Does anyone who has replied here even know how a GTR gearbox/transfer arrangement works??

No one but me has touched the car so no, 'someone' hasnt put ATF in the gearbox....

*frustrated*

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

Um I don't know how the attessa works. I mean, I have only apart one of them, , bleed the system a few times, but apart from that, no, I don't know hwo it works.

I noticed that you joined the forum in March 2005.

I believe the question is do you know how it works?

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

We're only trying to be nice and help you out with possible reasons for why it might be like that.

Just like diagnosing any other problem, there is a series of steps you go through.

e.g. it is quite plausible that synchros might be worn after 15 years.

Also, redline does have a red shockproof oil.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Um I don't know how the attessa works. I mean, I have only apart one of them, , bleed the system a few times, but apart from that, no, I don't know hwo it works.

I noticed that you joined the forum in March 2005.

I believe the question is do you know how it works?

What does this say abot me that i joined in March 05?? Seriously tell me id love to know. Maybe you could argue the fact that im 18 as well, some young bloke who doesnt know sh!t

And yes indeed i know exactly how the ATTESSA works. I also happen to know that on the front of the transfer it has it own pump and this is where i know it is leaking from, pumping into the gearbox where it fits onto the output shaft.

I have no issues about the operation of the system...jus wanting to know if anyone has had this problem before and where the best place is to go and have this rectified.

Im not having a go at anyone and i know that people are only trying to help me out and this is very much appreciated, thankyou all. But you cant blame me for commenting on the uneducated guesses im getting about this though.

Thanks again,

Mat.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

What I was getting at is that you've been on the forums for 1 year.

Duncan has extensive knowledge and plenty experience.

My post above got stuffed up. What I was getting at is that I have actually rebuild a transfer case and bled several of them.

I was just saying that we were merely leading you through a process of diagnosis. I'm not saying that this is you, but many other people haev asked questions like um, ah, like how do I like bleed this etc.

Anyways, don't worry about it. which part is leaking?

cokey Explorer

cokey

Posted
Posted

Hey Femmidom.

"Then drop the drain plug and even more. Undo the transfer case drain plugs...a drip comes out."

Without the pump running what did you expect ?

I merely mentioned the redline oil because the stuff i bought was red !

Is the Attesa fluid reservoir running dry ?

I am well aware of how the system works and have a spare stripped in the garage.

You should look in the manual under Transfer Oil Seal Replacement !

THE PAGE IS NUMBERED CH63.

Also shows the position of the Pump.

If you dont find this helpfull , I cant help !

Chill Cokey

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Note the only reason why people throw ATF into gearboxes that are not spec'd for it is because it improves the shifting quality of a f**ked up gearbox (due to ATF being very thin). Obviously ATF's additive pack is not suitable for gear/hypoid action and thus the box wears out even quicker.

This reflects in Cube's testimonial. Sorry to hear u guys got shafted. ATF is a quick and nasty fix.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
  • Author
Posted
"Then drop the drain plug and even more. Undo the transfer case drain plugs...a drip comes out."

Without the pump running what did you expect ?

I think you are getting confused with the pressure system part of the ATTESSA ie (reservoir in the boot, pump ontop of the diff), and the actual transfer case oil. There should always be oil in the transfer case...same as any gearbox.

No the reservoir in the boot is fine, at its normal level.

Anyway the leak is INSIDE the transfer/gearbox setup. No external leaks as such. The transfer has its own pump to circulate the oil inside of it, like the engine oil pump. This is where it is leaking from. Out of the transfer case pump into the gearbox.

I wont be looking up in my manual how to replace the seal because that is something i dont want to touch, id rather have someone who knows what they are doing fix it, not a 5 min job to take this in and out if u feel me...plus im not 100% its the actual seal, might be something else in that area, but wanna get it done properly.

So anyone know a good place to go to have this prob fixed? People that do transfer cases??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...