Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Catch Can Mounting And Roughting


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Read the oil control thread. Beyond all the talk about restrictors and external drains, there is solid info on the best sort of closed circuit catch can system. Open catch cans and deactivated PCV is a shit idea.

Why is this?

Whats the issue with the PCV being blocked off?

Street legality = zero.

Fumey smells = the suck.

It not being hard to actually achieve a multi stage catch can with proper pcv functionality = enough of a reason to go to that amount of effort rather than cheaping out.

As long as it wont damage anything thats fine.

Only reason mines like that at the moment is because im such a cheap ass i havnt got a place to attach it into my intake

That said, ive never had Smells or Smoke coming from it.

Edited by jay-rod

yer its just my highmount set up doesnt have a spot on the intake pipe to add that third line

That's a weak reason.

You havee been asking about getting someone to fab a catch can.

Get them to add it to to the inlet pipe.

Edited by Ben C34

^ Cal ya show off :)

Had to be done lol. I dunno people seem to get mental about catch cans but mine works alright for a mild-medium setup lol. Plus I like my photo :)

and as above, I have a fitting welded onto my intake for the catch can. The bungs can be bought easy as, theres no problem at all sourcing them. It would cost bugger all to have it welded on. If he is making a catch can I dare say if you supply the fitting he will weld it on for free

That's a weak reason.

You havee been asking about getting someone to fab a catch can.

Get them to add it to to the inlet pipe.

Thats a fair point. I just bought all the lines and fitting for the car and the can it was coming with feel through. so now im stuck with a heap of fittings nd braided line. hence trying to find a fab guy so i can get it made to exactly how i need it

My tuner blocked my pcv up saying it causes problems with the nistune

Any truth to that, or is he seeing a placebo affect?

yep, with any AFM setup if you're introducing "un-metered" air from the atmosphere it will cause all sorts of issues.. hence if you're running an AFM setup with a vented catch can you need to delete the PCV

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...