Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i know theres no magical formula for this question to give me an exact figure but can someone help me out at what power this should product. Remember this is going in an R31.

* RB25DET

* Standard Turbo

* Wastegate (no bov at this stage)

* R33 Front Mount Kit with stainless steel piping

* Wolf V400 ECU

* Larger injectors and fuel pump

* RB25DET gearbox with twin plate clutch

* R33 Brake upgrade

* 1 piece tailshaft

* Custom diff

What i want answered is a few questions.

* What is the standard RB25DET turbo like ? How much boost can it handle ?

* Will the standard turbo be able to keep running on 1bar of boost safely and reliably

* What power should this package produce

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129664-projected-power-anyone/
Share on other sites

turbo will die if run at 1bar for time. the safe level for them is anything under approx 12psi. if you were to run the car rich as hell it would prolong the life slightly as the exhaust temps would be a bit cooler. the main limit in your setup is the turbo. running it past 12psi is slightly pointess as they are out of their efficiency range.

also i would look at some kind of bov just to take a bit of pressure off the turbo. not 100% necessary, but a bit safer.

power wise you should be up around the 200kw-210kw. if you highflow the turbo then you can bump that power figure up a bit to about 220-230kw.

Well the stock turbo has a wastegate already, you dont really need to mention it, unless you'd changed it?

Your results will be the same as everyone else really.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55845

180-200rwkw

If you used the search button you'd see that the stock turbo can let go at anything above 10psi. Its really luck of the draw.

Larger injectors are just a waste of money. You wont need them

Hi guys i know theres no magical formula for this question to give me an exact figure but can someone help me out at what power this should product. Remember this is going in an R31.

* RB25DET

* Standard Turbo

* Wastegate (no bov at this stage)

* R33 Front Mount Kit with stainless steel piping

* Wolf V400 ECU

* Larger injectors and fuel pump

* RB25DET gearbox with twin plate clutch

* R33 Brake upgrade

* 1 piece tailshaft

* Custom diff

What i want answered is a few questions.

* What is the standard RB25DET turbo like ? How much boost can it handle ?

* Will the standard turbo be able to keep running on 1bar of boost safely and reliably

* What power should this package produce

a big definate with the diff tuffened up if aussie 31, should be close to 200 kw hopefully! as said b4 larger injectors not needed yet put money towards a hi flow or another turbo!

Hope you don't want to rev it. 99% of one piece tailshafts go critical after 6500rpm unless they have extra thick tubing.

Um wouldnt tailshaft speed be dependant on what speed you are doing not rpm? being as its after the gearbox.

well i was hoping on getting around 250kw out of the car. seems like this number is slowly getting out of my reach. With a larger turbo would this be obtainable. Sorry im a newb to the turbo scene. Ive had v8s in the past so excuse my ignorance to the issue.

You'll have to hi-flow it.

http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Upgr...pgrade_gtst.htm

$2000, great value, awesome response. Cant go past it IMO.

Also, as i posted earlier... please read the sticky thread.

Nothing wrong with being new to the scene, but there is a lot that you can do to help yourself :)

http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Upgr...pgrade_gtst.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...