Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

A mate of a mate of mine offered me a cheap port and pollish for my R34 GTT yesterday and was wondering if i should go ahead with it or not.

I have some understanding of what is involved but i just wanted to get more info before i do anything about it.

What are the pros and cons of doing it and has anyone else done it to there GTT?

Is there a noticeable power gain and saving on economy?

He said he will do it for $50 / cylinder = $300 plus the cost of getting the head re-done and it will take about 2 days... is that a decent price?

Would people recommend it, and if not, why?

Any comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130142-port-and-pollish-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

What do you mean the "head re-done" and how much for that? Last time I checked that part of it would cost $500-600 making the total $900ish which is still cheapish but do you need it? We need more info on your setup to answer that question.

yeh its worth it...if your engine is already pulled out and apart and your doing other mods to it. But just for the sake of pulling your std motor apart and getting the head port n polished and then faced with a maybe on the valves if thats what hes referring to for the 'head redone' then its prob not worth the hassle for the money even if it is cheap.

Hey,

Thanks for the replies guys!

Yeah, i am using the stock turbo right now with no plans to upgrade it till it dies...

I still have stock ECU, injectors, fuel pump etc...

My current performance mods are:

- Air pod

- Exhaust

- 600mm FMIC using stock piping

I think he meant getting the head machined or something, and he mentioned something about the lifters too...

The car only has 56,000kms and hasnt been flogged from what i can tell, so the engine still should be in very decent condition... He recommends getting it done as it is a decent price and gives you more power etc... but if its gonna cost another $500 - $600 for the head, i think i'll leave it.

Next time i see him ill ask what exactly needs to be done to it, coz he said he has to get that done by someone else as he doesnt have the equipment to do it... i thought he said its around $150 though? I'll have to double check.

Thanks all.

I think he meant getting the head machined or something, and he mentioned something about the lifters too...

I'm probably way off the mark here.. but isn't the idea of machining your head to increase compression? Don't you want to decrease it?

Tell me if i'm wrong guys.

Depends which part of the head you machine.

Another couple of costs you seem to have forgotten about are a new head gasket and labour.

Also with stock everything there is absolutely no point whatsoever in doing this mod.

DON'T DO IT.

I say otherwise; DO IT :P

Change the head gasket; change the valve springs; camshafts; valves... replace head studs; do the port and polish and end up with a race-prepped head!

Sure you might live in a cardboard box after; but you know it ain't stock no more!!!

I say otherwise; DO IT :P

Change the head gasket; change the valve springs; camshafts; valves... replace head studs; do the port and polish and end up with a race-prepped head!

Sure you might live in a cardboard box after; but you know it ain't stock no more!!!

Ignore this person. He is an ass.

waste of time for your set-up. $1000 could be spend elsewhere for much better gains.

Agreed

Far better bang for buck mods witrh your setup.

I could think of around 8 grand you can spend elsewhere before even coming close to needing porting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's a bit late to say "This won't have any tangible effect and it is not worth spending more than about three seconds on it, please just enjoy the car" But I said it anyway. Does the pod actually get any airflow in that position behind a bumper like that?
    • Hey guys - apologies for digging this up. Has this website been shutdown or is the outage temporary?
    • So, went shopping at Just Jap for things that might work for the intake  After some trial fitting there I ended up with a 3" x 45° silicone bend, a 3" x 300mm alloy straight, and a humped joiner, some minor trimming will be required to shorten some of the stuff, but nothing that is beyond my "ham fisted" skills The guy at Just Jap was most helpful as we had all sorts of joiners,  bends and stuff out trial fitting  Laying it out above the stuff in there it seems everything will fit nicely, and looking at it, it is probably the way I should have been looking at doing it from the beginning, probably..... In the end it is a front bar off job anyway to remove the original stuff behind the front bar that is taking up the required realestate needed, so maybe a Thursday or Friday job And because I'm a hopeless consumer, I grabbed some new steel wheel nuts, the current ones are a spline drive type with a "security" socket, that somehow someone keeps misplacing, the new ones are a basic black steel 17mm hex socket In other news: I just did my "final" tax return, I am now officially a old retired veteran pensioner, and I'm milking the system for all it's worth,  life is good
    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
×
×
  • Create New...