Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does this also apply for stuck on badge emblems? I have the chrome SKYLINE lettering stuck to my stock rear bar and want to get them off to put them on my new nismo rear bar as Its already got the engraving on it. Do I just heat up the glue and then it will be easier to take off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130153-vinyl-removal/#findComment-2407458
Share on other sites

does this also apply for stuck on badge emblems? I have the chrome SKYLINE lettering stuck to my stock rear bar and want to get them off to put them on my new nismo rear bar as Its already got the engraving on it. Do I just heat up the glue and then it will be easier to take off?

Yep, that'll do the trick. Heat it up alot, just careful you don't heat up the plastic too much or the paint. Slow and steady's the way to go. Take your time.

I used a hair dryer to debadge my car and the g/f's car. Then I used a bit of metho on a rag to remove any left over bits and pieces of sticky gunk (rinsed off with water after ofcourse).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130153-vinyl-removal/#findComment-2408123
Share on other sites

does this also apply for stuck on badge emblems? I have the chrome SKYLINE lettering stuck to my stock rear bar and want to get them off to put them on my new nismo rear bar as Its already got the engraving on it. Do I just heat up the glue and then it will be easier to take off?

If its just the glue you want to take off then Jeff used his buffer and got rid of his GTS25-T sticker on the back of his 33.

Not too sur about vinyl but hair dryer sounds like a great idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130153-vinyl-removal/#findComment-2408142
Share on other sites

Hey c'towners,

Does anybody know the best way to remove vinyls from car bodies???

Please pm me if you know how, as i want mine removed, its annoying me

All of the above works but if you have any residue left on the car or you find the vinyl stickers are old and are coming of in very annoying little pieces then go to your local panel beater/spray painter (someone you trust) and ask them if they have a "caramel wheel" - it's a rubber drill attachment and smells like caramel but gets your vinyl stickers off really quick and safely! I have a friend who's a spray painter and he removed mine and you can't see where the stickers were at all..... good luck! :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130153-vinyl-removal/#findComment-2412456
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...