Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clean and 'stealthy' looking mate... this is the style I like - simple... no stickers, RICE etc. Nice.

I would however, get bigger rims - but besides that looks nice and clean.

And oh, 1 more thing... definitely put the matt-black original lip back on - the CB one looks ghey!!

Thanks dude, but I kinda agree with the guys above, I wouldn't change anything about currently.

The CF lip looks average in the photos because you don't get that sense of depth and dimesion that comes with CF, its actually really 3 dimensional and looks awesome in person as its an unusual weave so its unique, but you don't see it so much in photos because it looks like a wierd chequered sticker, or some tacky fake stuff!

and as for bigger wheels.......what(?), you serious, they are 19x10.5's.....how much bigger do you want?.....20's are lame and too auto salon-ish on GTR's and you won't find much wider than 10.5!!!!

Your car is extremely clean neil, and the wheels look amazing. Well suited to the silver/tinted windows. I love it.

The photo quality is also great, they are some really high quality shots.

Thanks for the good feedback!

believe it or not the photos were taken with a Casio Exilim S770 point and shoot, not the greatest camera... Id love a DSLR. The car wasnt clean either...

Neil

Edited by mr_squiggle_1
its not that silly a question, it can be done i dont know all the ins and outs but its a YES :P

Are you sure you'd want to change the grill and bonnet, just to fit S3 GTR lights? :D

Not to mention that the headlights may not line up properly with the std s2 gtst bar.

The conversion is alot more easily done on a S1 gtst.

Very nice neil.

can you tell me the specifics of the window tint? it looks like the driver an passenger has a lighter shade than the rest of the windows. What are the percentages? Im wanting to do this myself.

To be totally honest I dont know. The tint was done when I bought the car. The rear window and fixed side windows are extremely dark, night time reversing is a nightmare! I dont think the tinting is legal as its alot darker then my S13 I had back in the day that I had darkest legal tint put on.

Neil

Are you sure you'd want to change the grill and bonnet, just to fit S3 GTR lights? ;)

Not to mention that the headlights may not line up properly with the std s2 gtst bar.

The conversion is alot more easily done on a S1 gtst.

would that be due to S1 and S2 bonnets being slightly different

Are you sure you'd want to change the grill and bonnet, just to fit S3 GTR lights? ;)

Not to mention that the headlights may not line up properly with the std s2 gtst bar.

The conversion is alot more easily done on a S1 gtst.

he asked if S3 GTR go into S2 GTR, or can I not read properly?

the answer is yes if GTR to GTR.

would that be due to S1 and S2 bonnets being slightly different

there are few differences between the S1 and S2 R33gtst.

- Bonnet is diifferent: More squarish, has the lip.

- The "curve" of the headlights are different, not just the shape: s1 stick/curve out further than the s2.

- The bar is also different, as it follows the curve of the lights (ie: if you put a s2 bar on a s1, the bar tucks under the headlight; and vis-versa)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...