Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Dump Pipe Options?

eXc

By eXc,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

eXc Mentor

eXc

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Everyone,

I have a R32 GTST - RB20DET. Running 0.8 bar. 3" Cat back. Otherwise stock (engine performance wise)

I have a 3" cat back at the moment. I have finally got around to having the money spare to get a dump. I have bought a metalcat off the net.

I had planned to get a shop to make the dump pipe and weld the cat in, so I got a cat without flanges (it was extra cost to get flanges).

I am now considering buying a pre-fabricated pipe off the net.

Should I bother with a pre-fab or is one that an exhaust shop just as good as a pre-fab one?

If I go pre-fab, it means I will have to go to a shop to get it welded anyways, but I suppose I could just have the dump on with out the cat, and go to the shop?

It's going to cost me $330-380 (2 shops...2 quotes) to get the pipe made and cat in.

It will cost me $230ish to get a pre-fab pipe (didnt do much searching as yet...that was just a quick look) plus I am guessing 1 hours labour at the shop, which is like $70 isnt it?. So that makes it around $300 to go the pre-fab way. Plus the time of me doing it. - This is the one I found after a quick look http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...260&hl=dump

What are your opinions?

Edited by eXc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130737-exhaust-dump-pipe-options/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

probably just go the pre-fab one. either the pre-fab, or the exhaust shop's one is going to be better than the stock, so its win-win. was the exhaust shop going to make 1, or order 1 in? usually they just order them in so it would probably be very similar to the that one you are looking at. i would also suggest getting flanges put on your cat, so that it is removable. this will make life much simpiler (and cheaper) should you ever damage the front pipe, cat or rear exhaust.

BSK Enthusiast

BSK

Posted
Posted (edited)

i have just upgraded 2 days ago from a stock dump to a copy split dump with not much of a noticable gain at all. its on a RB20 aswell with a HKS GT2510 and GTR injectors with full 3inch exhaust with 2 straight thru mufflers and no cat at all, not even a pretend one. i was expecting at least a 500rpm faster spool but all i can really notice is that the turbo spools a little more easily maybe smoother is a better word to describe it.... even took it to an exhaust shop for a full once over to make sure i did the job right and there are no leaks.

the dump i got only cost me $120 and included 2 gaskets nuts bolts etc...

gotta love china copy prices although im probably also paying for it in the end with lack of improvement.

but as mad082 said its gotta be better then stock right!

i was previously making 288rwhp so maybe if i put it on the dyno i may have a different result up in the top end (better i hope) or maybe the 3inch single bell mouth dump would have been a better option.

the few tuning shops i spoke to here in perth when shopping around for dumps mentioned the xforce exhaust products so maybe go for one of them. i opted for the cheaper option cos i also didnt know which way to go and found it hard to part with 350+ when indecisive.

sorry i got no real advise for ya but thats my recent dump pipe experience and maybe u might have better luck then me...

BTW RB20 with no exhaust after where the cat should be, sounds crazy. ... if only the police were of the same opinion. heh

Edited by BSK
eXc Mentor

eXc

Posted
  • Author
Posted
why not just get some flanges welded onto the cat you have?

That was just suggested to me a little while ago. I didn't realise it was something that the shops would have. Are they are standard size? Or will I need to have the dump pipe with me when I go to a shop to get the flanges on?

Cheers

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...