Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ECUTalk Consult LCD Displays

Edit: 28/1 - Donated $50 to SAU

Edit: See video (~7.5mb) of it in action, and a writeup of whats happening in the video at different points.

incar3s.jpg

final1s.jpg

As anyone who is keeping up with the consult lcd display thread ive had going here on sau and on pga for the last 8 months, will know im getting very close to finialising the device. Ive decided to start this thread now to better organise everything.

As it uses the consult port, you will need a car that:

a) supports consult (ie, you have the plug near ur fuse box), and

b) still retains the stock ECU (piggybacks and remaps generally fine), and

c) doesnt have messed up wiring to consult port (shouldnt, unless you have an engine transplant or some other reason the wiring may be been fubared - eg it was on my old rb25 silvia).

For skylines, this is the R32's (10/89 + i think), R33, R34 (all variants except CA18 engined skylines, if anyone actually wasted money importing one!)

This follows on from previous successful group buys ive done for DIY Consult Interfaces and the same thing but assembled.

Display Hardware:

Edit: On the cable there is a "black blob". Inside this, there is a flattish voltage regulator (drops 12-14v to 9V), and a 0.5A fuse (the more rounded bit). A spare fuse is included with the device (this isnt a loose component).

The device is 188mm wide, 37mm high (39mm with buttons) and 28mm deep, and weighs around 300g (depending on cable length). It is quite compact is takes up only slightly more than the LCD display itself does (which is 182w x 33.5h x 14d without connector).

It has a right side and a rear holes for possible cable exits. It has two cables from the device - one for the integrated consult interface (serial connector, plug into serial port on laptop) and one to the consult port (genuine consult connector).

The device itself has 3 buttons (red, white and grey/black) on the top of the device, going left to right from the left of the device. The buttons are used to navigate through menus and the different features of the device. The red, or leftmost button, is the enter/select button, which either initiates the menu (from the main display screen) or selects the currently selected item from any other menus/screens. The white (left) and grey/black (right) buttons control the position of the cursor mainly in any of the menus. It should be pretty easy to work it out when you use it.

About 10mm to the right of the buttons is a switch (only slightly above the surface, and might not be very visible in the picture). This switch selects between lcd display (LEFT) and consult interface (RIGHT).

The screen is a standard 40x2 backlit screen, wide temperate (-20 to +70 operating, -30 to +80 storage), and has the best viewing angles ive yet to see in a 40x2 screen (50 above, 60 below, and 40 left or right), let alone a wide temp version which is needed for keeping in hot cars (pun intended).

Display Features:

The display has sensor display, fault codes, time trials (0-60, 0-100, 0-160, 400m), options setup, peak values, integrated serial consult interface, and a device info screen. Rather than try to describe them, its probably easier to show what the screen will show (more or less). When the display turns on (when ign is on), it first goes to the sensor values screen. from there, hitting enter (red) will bring up the main menu, from which everytihng is accessible.

On all menus: 'X' denotes current cursor position. left/right to move, and enter (red) to select the current item. most of the info below is zeroed out or whatever, when its running youll see actual values of course. by default ive just stuck the X in the first option.

main menu:
/------------------------------------------\
| [X]Display [ ]Error Codes [ ]Time Trials |
| [ ]Options [ ]Peak Values [ ]Device Info |
\------------------------------------------/

display: will look different with different options (eg tps %, etc)
/------------------------------------------\
| 000kph 0000rpm 00.0v EC:xxx INJ:00% 00oB |
| AAC:00 O2:.00v 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V |
\------------------------------------------/

error codes: an error code has: xx - the error code, "description" name of error (or close enough to it) and (xx) = number of times the car has started since the error has occured
/------------------------------------------\
| [X]Exit [ ]Clear	 xx description (xx) |
|  13 Coolant Sens( 1) 15 Oxygen Sensr(12) |
\------------------------------------------/

time trials: havent completed the 400m one - may remove that (very difficult to do, but will attempt it)
/------------------------------------------\
| [X]Exit [ ]0-60 [ ]0-100 [ ]0-160 [ ]400 |
| Last Time: 000.000s  Best Time: 000.000s |
\------------------------------------------/

individual time trial: distance may be removed if i cant get it to work. when u start time trial, the clear/exit options have a [-], meaning they cant be accessed (till you stop the time trial)
/------------------------------------------\
| [X]Exit [ ]Start [ ]Clear  Best:xxx.xxxs |
| Speed:000kph Distance:xxxm Time:xxx.xxxs |
\------------------------------------------/

options: pretty self explanatory - press enter when ur on option to toggle between alternatives
/------------------------------------------\
| [X]Exit  Move to option, enter to switch |
| [ ]Speed:KM->Mi [ ]Temp:C->F [ ]TPS:V->% |
\------------------------------------------/

peak values: reset, well, resets them!
/------------------------------------------\
| [x]Exit [ ]Reset  000kph 0000rpm EC:xxx  |
| INJ:000% 00oB 000oC AFM:0.00V  TPS:0.00V |
\------------------------------------------/

device info: bit of random info on the device. press enter (or any button, forget) to go back to menu
/------------------------------------------\
| ECUTalk LCD Display Version 1.0 11/08/06 |
| Copyright Your Mother, www.ecutalk.com |
\------------------------------------------/

The display is upgradable for most minor changes made (if they are made after you purchase one), so dont be concerned about missing out on anything.

Group Buy Scheduling:

Once testing is finalised, ill be making the devices for everyone else as quick as I can, but i imagine maybe 5-10 per week.

Total run will be around 48 displays. Some may be sold on PGA or on a case by case basis to those overseas. So total amount available here depends upon demand. If demand is high ill try set up another run later on.

Price and Payment:

$200 pickup or +postage. Its likely price will rise after this initial group buy if i make any more (as im just breaking even assuming i sell all displays).

Comes with a 18cm strip of velcro for mounting. (the glue on the velcro isnt that good, doesnt like direct sunlight...up to you whether you use it to mount or something else).

Payments will only be made when ive confirmed that a device is available - i wont require or accept any up front payments to keep things easier to manage. Selling my RB25 Silvia gave me $10k which i hadnt had any reason to use, so now ive used almost all of that up, i need to get it back :rofl:

$2 per unit sold will be donated to SAU (will be donated at the end of selling this first batch). Wish i could donate more, but any more and ill risk losing money :rofl:

Pickup is from Blacktown, Western Sydney, or possibly near Wynyard in Sydney (I work there a couple days/week).

Postage is via: Express Post($7) or Registered Post ($10). Registered may take longer to send out if i have to do it over the counter, and its naturally slower to arrive than express, but it does have insurance for $200 (though ive never had an express post item not turn up).

Payment is via bank transfer (St George, arrives day after at earliest), or Paypal (instant, but has an additional fee of $6 unfortunately). Paypal is only an advantage when bank transfer is inconvenient, or you want the device ASAP (eg its 8pm and bank transfer wont be processed till the next day, and arrive in my account the day after that). You dont need a paypal account necessarily to use paypal, just a credit card.

OK i want one, what do I do now?:

I want to structure the group buy such that those who expressed interest first in the relevant threads here on sau and on pga will get first preference.

If you are not on the list, simply post in this thread that you're interested. I will, as i make the devices, ask the people in the list via PM in turn if they still want one, and if so, request payment. If they can provide payment within a reasonable time, they can purchase it then and pickup/get it posted. Otherwise, they'll either be removed from the list or put to the end of it, depending on whether theyre no longer interested, or just cant pay right now.

Things ill ask for when I've got displays ready and you're next on list:

Required:

1) Your full name

2) Your address and phone number

3) Email address (if u have one...for updates in future)

4) Your payment method (bank transfer, paypal (+$6 fee), or pickup)

5) Post method - either:

express($7, preferred) or

registered($10, can't be sent out as quickly as express as requires going into post office), or

pickup - if you want to pick up, then your availability (so i can tell you when is good for me).

6) Do you want the cable exiting the rear (back right corner) or the right side? (think about where you want to mount it)

7) What car(s) you want to use it on (+confirm uve read second paragraph of first post about what car's itll work on) - let me know if u dont want car info public on orderstatus page

Optional (defaults = quicker to make/send):

8) Cable lengths: standard is 150cm for both serial and consult cables. You can specify your own lengths, but i wont add the cables to your display till payment is received (so you wont get it as quickly). Cable lengths dont have to be the same.

9) If you want a non-standard serial number (standard: SN:00xx, eg SN:0025 for 25th display), give me an up to 7 character (eg "1_24 dg") serial number. This is for device info part of display - doesnt change functionality at all

10) Whether you have a laptop without serial port and would like a serial/usb converter (see here), +$20

Peter

Edited by NewKleer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130985-ecutalk-consult-lcd-displays/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Order Status

Current order status for those who've been contacted by me can be seen here:

http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd/orderstatus.php

Interest List

If you're interested but not on the list, reply to this thread. If you're no longer interested, just send me a pm and ill take you off. If you thought you already indicated you're interested in the old thread, pm me the link to your post and ill stick you in the appropriate position on the list (dont edit it the post, as ill take last edit date for position on list). Also let me know if you dont want your username to be public.

When devices are available, ill PM people in order of the list and ask if theyre still interested/payment details etc.

Sold

kjb_r33

PranK

Haysey

msnismo

TurboX

bilbo117

MANWHOR3

MsG_ChRiS

Interloper

insu

enilyks33r

Rudager

Space Ninja

muck

AnFz

RAZOR32

frother

phunky_monkey

CeJay

D_I_F

linkems

battery

Later

toy86

WogsRus

CATKICKER

Acolyte

46n2

KamikazeR33

mr moo

hazerb30

govich

Edited by NewKleer

I'll definitely grab one if all works well! I'm already on the list but thought i'd restate my interest!

I'll have to find out about making the K-type sensors into a sensor for the oil temp as well!

So many things, so little time!

cool, if u have 3 cars i could probably come over there to test it out (if u want to give it a go on all 3) if that sounds ok.

No problem, let me know whens a good time and we'll organise something

what month? does it have a consult port (easier way to confirm), if so should work. O2/AFM readings will only be for left side (hopefully sometime down the track when i do second lot of improvements, ill be able to add support for some option to read the right side o2/afm - but if ur car is going fine, the values will be close to the same).

what month? does it have a consult port (easier way to confirm), if so should work. O2/AFM readings will only be for left side (hopefully sometime down the track when i do second lot of improvements, ill be able to add support for some option to read the right side o2/afm - but if ur car is going fine, the values will be close to the same).

hmm its an early one. i dont remember seeing a port when i had a look at the ecu a few months ago. is the consult port supposed to be next to the loom connection? or does anyone have a pic of the consult port?

hey mate im down for one, for a r32 with s2 rb25det. Has port near fuses.

cheers

Bret

ive been looking on the ecu for the port. no wonder i cant find it. :sorcerer:

What fuses - near the battery or under the dash?

Edited by SLIPPERY
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...