Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Pete I would have sent this to you in a pm, but pms don't seem to be working.

It appears that elie said in your thread that he's also interested in using the k-type sensor for the oil temp.

Do your current units have the hardware and software provision for the addition of a sensor later?

Like if there's enough interest on this feature, can it just be added later?

Or will a different circuit board have to be made etc?

I'm sure people would be interested in being able to have oil temp too.

Instead of people buying the sensors from all different places having different tolerances etc, do you have access to buy them? If so, what if you just designed the unit to take that one type of sensor, and i'll just give you money for the sensor?

I'm still very itnerested, and i'd be 300% interested if we can get the oil temp working. Save me having all different gauges and all other things everywhere.

cheers

Chris

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

most of the site wasnt working when u posted ;)

the current units will be able to be used without hardware modification (aside from necessary wiring etc to some external board) to add sensors later. ie, if i released a model that supported thermocouples, it would be no different from the current one in hardware setup.

software/firmware that runs it would obviously change (cause ud have to be able to see these temperatures somewhere), but thats relatively simple to reprogram later on.

so yes, if 20 people that buy the devices all want this kind of addon, thered be no problem doing it

a seperate external circuit board would be needed to hold the thermocouple reader chips, and this most likely would be kept in the engine bay as u dont want long leads on thermocouples (you cant just "extend" them easily with normal wire).

as a "k-type" thermocouple is a standard, any thermocouple of that standard should work in the same manner. if i was to do it though, id try to track down and organise them, though how u actually mount them would be up to you.

the chip needed to read these thermocouples is around $10-15, and youre looking at about the same again (or more) for a thermocouple. times that by 4, and add a bit for the board and other needed hardware, and it will cost ~150 perhaps all up.

the only thing is im not quite sure yet if its possible to only read 1, or unlimited units at a time - something ill have to look at.

if you wouldnt get a display if i said "i will never do this", then dont - cause there is that chance that ill never get time to. i think its likely i will eventually have time to, but who knows when (its very possible i may not get enough spare time again till the 2nd half of next year...)

Edited by NewKleer

Pete, i'm still gettign one. As I have said numerous times, you are an absolute legend for taking the time to do these things for all of us.

I didn't mean anything bad by my post, I was just toying with the idea. I always just think of all these things that would be really cool to have even though in realtiy, they are really difficult to do.

Cheers

i meant it more as a blanket statement to anyone not to expect that ill do anything at all on them after i sell this lot (and hence dont buy one based on the assumption i will). im aiming to improve them as i go along, but wont commit to anything. if people buy it for what it is now, and i can provide upgrade options in the future, thatd be great, but i simply dont know what ill do.

good ideas like temp monitoring never go astray however (closest idea i ever had to that was just monitoring the temperature of the device itself, but that was boring).

GOod on you Pete this must have been a heap of work to get together.

I already have a similar unit and it is very useful, especially not having to grab a laptop to read the consult all the time.

One suggestion, you might want to look into options for bigger displays, the one on the unit I have is too small to read unless not moving....

Also that second 02 sensor is very helpful for diagnosing dodgy 02 sensors on GTR since you can see them moving wierly/independantly

One suggestion, you might want to look into options for bigger displays, the one on the unit I have is too small to read unless not moving....

Also that second 02 sensor is very helpful for diagnosing dodgy 02 sensors on GTR since you can see them moving wierly/independantly

the 20x4 display (what u have?) has a character heigh of 4.75mm, whereas the 40x2 im using is 5.55mm. that together with being slim enough to mount on steering column (and hence closer to the positions available for the bulkier 20x4) makes reading it pretty easy.

ill have a think about whether i can do something for the GTR/300ZX users. currently it shows "O2:.00v", which is 7 chars, but if i cut down TPS:x.xxv (9 chars) to TPS:x.xv (8 chars), then ive got 8 chars for O2 sensor, which could then be O2:xx/xx (ie, lose the V and the . point, but be able to show both).

as for AFM, how important is that?

its currently AFM:x.xxV (9 chars). could make it A:x.x/x.x for Left/right? (no V and lose 1 dec place)

no promises, but does that look like a good solution?

Yeah sorry I forgot the 2nd AFM as well....they are even more important for sorting out missfires etc :D but x.x/x.x is fine it is just useful to be able to check both values together :D

ive been looking on the ecu for the port. no wonder i cant find it. :sorcerer:

What fuses - near the battery or under the dash?

its normally in the area around the fuses under the dash (ie, drivers side kick panel)

to keep people who've already been contacted about their displays updated, ive got an orderstatus webpage up here:

http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd/orderstatus.php

if any fields are empty that shouldnt be (eg cable length, cable exit, post/pay method, etc), it probably means you havent told me yet.

I would love one!

Problem is, I have no consult plug. (R32 RB20 silvertop into a HR31). Do you know if the consult loom just goes directly to the ECU (ie, basically 5 wires coming out of the ECU for consult) or is it much more complicated then that? Or does the consult loom plug into the ecu somewhere else (I doubt it).

I figure if my ECU supports consult, but I dont have the consult loom.....there might be a way to wire one in.

Thoughts?

yeh, you should be able to wire one in.

first youll need to work out if ur ECU supports it - not all R32's do (the ones from 6/89 to around 10/89 dont). if you know the date of the source car for ur R32 engine?

or failing that, grab the ECU model number off the ECU (23710 XXXXX) and i should be able to find out.

then if it supports consult, go to a wrecker and get a female consult plug (ie the vehicle one) from a n14/n15 pulsar. then locate a ecu pinout diagram

u have 3 wires to ECU, and +12v IGN and ground. TX, RX, CLK are the 3 wires u wire up to ECU, and 12v IGN/GND can come from ECU source also, which is normally the very right hand pins on ecu (pin number 59/60 or there abouts - confirm pin/location on the pinout).

obviously 12v IGN should only supply power when IGN is on.

i had to wire up my rb25 silva manually

Thanks mate.

Arnt all consult plugs the same, does it it have to be from a n14/n15 pulsar? (or is this just the cheapest option?) :ninja:

Last time I checked, Im pretty sure it was made in 89, but cant remember the month...will have to see if I can find the original VIN of the halfcut.

Anyway, I have access to an later R32 ECU if needed.

Either way, def put me down im very keen.

all consult plugs are the same, but good luck tracking down a 300zx, r32/r33/r34, s13/s14/s15 at a place that doesnt cost an arm and a leg.

most mainstream wreckers will have n14 pulsars, failing that i think some maximas might have them? im sure ull be able to find one - just bring along something to get it out though, theyre an absolute bastard to remove for the ones that at fixed to the side of the fuse box case.

Hey Peter,

I want one, but tell me what the chances are of getting one with Duncans suggestions (ie 2 AFMs and 2 O2's).

Thanks mate.

well, the easiest way would be

"2 AFMs and 2 O2's or ban!" :ninja:

im working on it now, probably finish it tonight, though id need a GTR to properly test it

Edited by NewKleer

done. it automatically checks if BOTH RH O2 and AFM available (both should be on 300zx and GTR) and will adjust screen accordingly (no need to set any options). if for some reason only one is available (o2 or AFM), then it wont show either (too complicated, and i dont know of any cars that only support one of these two RH sensors, either none or both)

second line for normal display:

//GTR/300ZX - tps down to 0.0 (from 0.00) if setup as V (% stays same, 000%)
AAC:00 O2:xx/xx 000oC A:0.0/0.0 TPS:0.0V

second line for peak values - note peak can show AFM to 2 dec places.

// if TPS setup to use volts (uses 9 chars), then INJ only 2 digits, and shows 99 max
INJ:00% 00oB 000oC A:0.00/0.00 TPS:0.00V

// if TPS setup to use % (uses 8 chars), then INJ has normal 3 digits and can potentially show 100%
INJ:000% 00oB 000oC A:0.00/0.00 TPS:000%

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...