Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nice, then I'll take one, how do I go about paying/ordering?

read the first/second post in thread :D

if u can pickup/help with testing (would be useful for the GTR to test ive done it right, i dont actually know till then), u get to jump the queue - otherwise ull be put at end of the list, and will be contacted if/when one's available

if pickup/testing, just bring money whenever we meet up, and if ur happy with it then (ie, no bugs i need to fix, which is possible and the whole point in testing) then u can buy it then.

this or following weekend may be possible for me - depends when i get it "finished" by - later is better than sooner as i never meet deadlines :D

send me a pm with the 8 bits of info at end of first post

also a msg to everyone - final cost may rise slightly to 210-220 depending on costs of legal advice. at this stage it looks likely that ull need to sign/send a disclaimer/waiver that basically says if ur an idiot, its not my fault. just to cover me in case, by any chance ur a rich kid with a lawyer as a father and disfigure urself while doing a 0-160km/h time trial down parramatta road in peak hour rush... :P

Legal costs may be free mate.

At my uni (UTS) they have the law service. where there is a lawyer there that advices you on issues. Basically, every uni usually has one of these. you can basiaclly just walk in. say you're a student. and bob's your uncle.

ultimo tafe also has one. etc.

good thinking! will see where that takes me, though im not sure whether theyd give advice for what theyd consider "commercial" or non-student enterprises

edit: yep just confirmed that they dont provide free help in this area, worth a try though

Edited by NewKleer

0-60kmh, 0-100kmh, 0-160kmh, and 400m time trials are done (all have speed/distance), all except for the clearing of best times.

distance is calculated from average acceleration between each jump in speed (2, 4, 6, 8 etc km/h, every 2 kph is lowest consult speed resolution), on the assumption acceleration is linear within that interval

as the rate of change of acceleration (that is, the rate of change of the rate of change of speed :/ ) is relatively negligible over such a small interval, the distance measuring is reasonably accurate (i hope!). ill compare it to my odometer reading next time i put my display back together to test and go for a drive.

this means that a L/100KM economy reading is a possibility (will require injector CC size setup) - i still have to decide if ill try to do this or not.

edit: fixed num injectors used per rev in 4 stroke engine - thanks enilyks33r

if anyone has time to check my maths for calc L/100KM, go ahead...

input:

injector size: s ml.min-1 (user input)

inj pulse width: p ms (consult) - this is fuel injected per rev of engine per cylinder?? hence we need:

number of injectors: n (user input) - this will be divided by 2 for 4 stroke engine down below where its used

car RPM: r rpm (consult)

current speed: u km.h-1 (consult)

determine:

1 rev period: t = 1/(r/60) s

inj ml per period (all injectors): m = (n/2)*(s/60)/t ml

speed in m/s: v = (u * 1000)/(60*60) ms-1

now we have ml of fuel used in the single RPM

assuming constant speed over that revolution of the engine, distance travelled, in m:

d = v * t

to get L/100KM:

ECO = (m/1000) / (100*(d / 1000))

= m / (100 * d) L/100KM

Edited by NewKleer
So this unit would be fine for a Z32 300zx with a stock ecu?

There would be dozens of Zed owners here who would lap them up. :blink:

going to be testing them on one at least, but no reason why it wouldnt. has the RH o2/afm readouts so should be good

but theres too many people that want one already, so im not going to be posting about them anywhere else yet till everyone on here and pga has one first :)

Edited by NewKleer

got the L/100KM working, works great!

also found out while driving to bondi and back i did my distance calcs for time trials wrong and was assuming the speed in kph was same as speed in metres/s (its around 3 times as much), so my leisurely 400m times were <10s :P

the 0-160km/h time trial is also good to use to test how accurate distance measuring is compared to your odometer (my odo is broken atm so that doesnt help!) as assuming you dont hit 160km/h, it will run indefinitely (until you stop it).

the unit gets warm while running due to the voltage regulator inside, at a guess maybe ~40 degrees? will see what i can do to lower that (temp is due to voltage reg having to drop 14v down to 5v...its possible to make an external voltage reg drop temp from 14v to 9v so the one inside the module only drops 9v to 5v and shouldnt heat up much at all)

ive bought a whole bunch of 0.5A fuses ill be testing, final unit will probably have a fuse on it to give people a piece of mind that it cant short anything important or blow any car fuses (assuming unit somehow were to malfunction).

not much longer to go now hopefully!

Edited by NewKleer

here's the pics of 2 potential spots in my N14. in the flipdown if u dont need to look at it much, and on steering column. note the angle on steering column is straight on and u cant see clock - but from a higher position where drivers eyes are, you might be able to see clock. the device is also "falling over" backwards a bit so its taking up slightly more space than it would otherwise due to angle its on.

incar1s.jpg

incar2s.jpg

here's a video demo and assosciated commentary in everyone's favourite american standard code for information interchange format (right...)

7.5mb on the video or something, divx5.something

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...