Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got about 10 of the 50 remaining, which will be taken by the remaining people on the list (on here and pga). do u want me to add u to the list? (u might get in if people are too slow/dont want one). otherwise next batch will be around january

Yesss please... arghh i didnt see them on pga >.<

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

This is mine set up on the dash. You can see most of all the dash displays etc and its not distracting because the ECU display is not bright but perfectly readable. The cables can be tucked neatly under the ledge into the steering column cavity and through the inside of the dash so are not untidy and the RS232 plug can reach through to the pas seat to a laptop OK. I only used a small pad of velcro at each end as its so strong and makes the unit hard to remove if you use the full length.

post-12111-1164153443.jpg

The photo is chopped tthough as the flash was stuffing it up. An extremely handy device but I still am not sure what values I should be seeing at initial power on and then at idle etc.

Peter can you list some typical values of all sensors?

batt: <12 car not on, ~14v running

eco: 99.9 (infinite) when car not moving, 20->99 under acceleration, <20 cruising (assuming set up in options)

inj: ~5-10% on cold warmup, 0-3% normal idle, 3-100% depending on load. 100% peak doesnt necessarily mean your injectors have maxxed out, you need to hop on a dyno to work out this

timing: anything thats BTDC, big jumps down from like 30 to 3/5 under load may indicate pinging/det (logging will help here). if timing jumps around from ~3 to 15 or so at idle, your closed TPS switch may not be staying shut properly.

aac - auxiliary air control, lets air into engine bypassing throttle, will be high (~90) on startup/AC on, but should fall to around 20-40 when running normally

o2: 0.3v till sensor warms up (30s), then swinging between 0.1->0.9v and back continually when cruising. from memory, 1v = rich, 0v = lean. on decel/engine breaking will probably go lean, and rich on acceleration

engine temp: "warmup" time typically to around 60-65C mark, then normal operation. be worried if it gets close to 100, but in low/mid 90s is generally fine.

AFM: generally corresponds to load of engine, 0.5v when not running, 1.0-1.2 idle (after warmup), if this hits 5v then you're probably getting close to peak power for current AFM (should determine this on a dyno).

tps: ~0.5v closed, ~4.5v WOT, and linear in between (roughly)

Hey Peter, my unit just arrived, thanks mate!

I haven't used it as yet but I have to say I'm very impressed with the unit itself, and your packaging. Very professional.

Can't wait to try it out

Dane

Awsome! Picked mine up last night. Peter explained everything to me.. even gave me a jump start (stupid battery)

Thanks Peter!

  • 2 weeks later...

i may have a couple of left over enclosures (ones that didnt closer perfectly for one reason or another) that i can probably fix u up with whenever i do next upgrade.

just tape sides with electrical tape for time being (depending how bad it is). it's the front lips bent out a bit?

i may have a couple of left over enclosures (ones that didnt closer perfectly for one reason or another) that i can probably fix u up with whenever i do next upgrade.

just tape sides with electrical tape for time being (depending how bad it is). it's the front lips bent out a bit?

Haha I did tape it up..

Its the back of it that has lifted up mainly on one side

regarding the peak values that it shows, they seem to be reset automaticaly once the ignition switched off and then on? is this the way it should be? i see there is a 'clear peak values' option but it seems to do it by itself...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...