Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 668
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Bad customer service is what has pissed me off lately. Thought I'd spend some of my hard earned dollars on a PS 2 and some games at a country Big W store. Went up to the counter with the games and asked if I could also purchase the PS 2 console as well. Afterall without one my games would be expensive drink coasters. So got this "oh f**k do I have to" look from the little overpaid stuck up b*tch who had to mentally process my difficult request and walk a whole 15 huge metres to retrieve one from the store room behind the counter. Said b*tch returns after her long excruciating journey even more b*tchy and somehow manages to wrap the games, receipt them and somehow deal with the apparently hard to operate cash register. Frankly I could'nt wait to get the f#ck out of there but managed a "see ya" on the way out. I guess its hard to serve 1 customer every 20 minutes poor honey she should try working in an entertainment section at the Knox City complex in Melbourne at Christmas, that is being run off your feet and the funny thing is I've been there countless times and never had one bad experience with the staff there who actually might have something legitimate to complain about. I just dont like walking into a store to spend money which did'nt grow on a tree to be treated like an inconvienience.

fair nuff,

I used to work in retail, i managed to make good sales and get returning customers from just a little kindness and extra effort, (i just thought that was the normal commonthing to do, guess i was wrong)

  • 1 month later...

dodgy importers that import and sell a car that has a faulty wiring loom.. the importer told me that they spent $2500.00 (two thousand and five hundred dollars.. not a typo) on trying to diognose a problem that the car was having (engine limiting to 5000rpm) and they told me that they had sorted it (shorting wire). on the day i picked the car they told me that the car was running beautiful. 1.5 hours later the engine was missfiring (i was already half way back to canberra when it started) and the stereo wasnt even working. trojan eventuly solved the problem (replaced spark plugs, coils and leads.. which wasnt cheap mind you).. or at least i thought the problem was solved.. it turns out that the ignition problems were only the icing on the cake.. the whole wiring loom has streched/corroded and all the pins on the ecu are bent.. THE WHOLE BLOODY THING, john said that it was lucky that the engine didnt have serious problems due to faulty wiring.. i cant believe that these "mechanics" japan bought and inspected the car and did not notice this problem and the problem wasnt picked up by the importers in sydney either.

now the poor guys at trojan (and an auto electrician whos name i dont know) have to replace the whole bloody loom from scratch using parts from supras, soarers etc

i frickn love the car but its turning out like my BMW did.. nothing stays not broken for more than a week.. really starting to strain the relationship

please note that i am not having a go at the guys from trojan at all.. they have been nothing but helpful since i got this car.. its the importers in sydney and their contact in japan that im pissed off with.

Edited by Ex!$t3nZ
dodgy importers that import and sell a car that has a faulty wiring loom.. the importer told me that they spent $2500.00 (two thousand and five hundred dollars.. not a typo) on trying to diognose a problem that the car was having (engine limiting to 5000rpm) and they told me that they had sorted it (shorting wire). on the day i picked the car they told me that the car was running beautiful. 1.5 hours later the engine was missfiring (i was already half way back to canberra when it started) and the stereo wasnt even working. trojan eventuly solved the problem (replaced spark plugs, coils and leads.. which wasnt cheap mind you).. or at least i thought the problem was solved.. it turns out that the ignition problems were only the icing on the cake.. the whole wiring loom has streched/corroded and all the pins on the ecu are bent.. THE WHOLE BLOODY THING, john said that it was lucky that the engine didnt have serious problems due to faulty wiring.. i cant believe that these "mechanics" japan bought and inspected the car and did not notice this problem and the problem wasnt picked up by the importers in sydney either.

now the poor guys at trojan (and an auto electrician whos name i dont know) have to replace the whole bloody loom from scratch using parts from supras, soarers etc

i frickn love the car but its turning out like my BMW did.. nothing stays not broken for more than a week.. really starting to strain the relationship

please note that i am not having a go at the guys from trojan at all.. they have been nothing but helpful since i got this car.. its the importers in sydney and their contact in japan that im pissed off with.

Join the club, I bought from a dealer, the fact that my car passed their shops roadworthy is laughable, but being a noob, I didn't spot the little things. So far it hasn't treated me too bad, but I am apprehensive about stuff with the car sometimes. Not a fan of my dealer at all.

Anyway, apart from that my current pet peeve, is the amount of pedestrians who don't seem to understand the concept that "Cars have RIGHT OF WAY on the road" don't even hurry across the road when they see you, and one woman gave me a death stare when I honked at them. Use a pedestrian crossing or give way to cars......

sigh.

That sux Nim, I hope you sort it out :D

Anyway, apart from that my current pet peeve, is the amount of pedestrians who don't seem to understand the concept that "Cars have RIGHT OF WAY on the road" don't even hurry across the road when they see you, and one woman gave me a death stare when I honked at them. Use a pedestrian crossing or give way to cars......

sigh.

i HATE this too... I always mutter under my breath " I WILL run you over" as I get closer to them... daring them to test me out lol :D People are so stupid....

  • 3 weeks later...

What gets me wound up?

Working in a shift work environment where you work 9 to 5 for 7 days straight, but the wrong end of 9 to 5 (as in 9pm to 5am), walking out to the shed to get in the car to bolt off to work, and finding, lucky me, I've got a flat tyre. This is about the coolest thing since herpes!

gallery_42829_2983_28025.jpg

I hate wankers that think they cool cuz the sit in Maccas car parks whilst dosing their cars (usually VL Turbo's, or in my lastest instance a r32 gts-t) for extended periods, the noise will really shit you off after a while.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...