Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my re5 built a few months ago, the valve body upgrade was imported from the US, thinner steel plates were laser cut so more clutch plates could be added and Dominator custom made me a 3000 stall converter on their 5 axis mill. The re5 is a much weaker box compared to the re4 (so I have been told) but this is holding the 250awkw I am pushing through it at the moment and is still very drivable. I had to disconnect the solenoid for the stall lock up clutch as it couldn't handle the power lockup the ecu was trying to make it do. (It locks constantly while in tiptronic mode.) I have fitted a switch in the dash to drop 12v onto the solenoid so I can lock it up still on the dyno.

I'm interested now to rip out the auto ecu and switch the solenoids manually, anyone know if there is such a kit for the 5 speed yet? If not I will have to design something.

im not a new at this mate i did searches, didnt find much on upgrading steps for autos. Just beacuse I drive it daily that doesnt mean i dont want it to be powerful. im just not going to thrash it like i would on a circuit. This being an auto performance thread i was hoping for advice on performance for my auto. And even tho timing belts can alter engine performance its not why i spoke of it at all, reason being was while im changing that i was wondering if anyone had ideas that could be done at the same time to save time/money performance wise. I'm changing the belt due to noise, these imports are known for having false odo reading so im doing it early to be safe.

Im not looking to learning about autos exactly, never modded an auto so i want assistance on mods for power gains for an auto. I dont want change my turbo for a garrett anything as yet, surely people have decent power without hurting the ceramic too much. If i knew what to do i wouldn't be asking. Anyway sorry to intrude mate ill seek advice elsewhere.

Cheers!

Hey mate, wasn't trying to have a go, but by the way it sort of came across like you actually didn't know to much and like so many people out there just gave a what do i do to get "a daily street car that does fast times".

I don't have a problem helping people out on what mods to do if they know what they want and want to inform me and other what they are trying to ask for in terms of engine, or drivetrain, or electronics or whatever.

There is so much stuff out there in this site it is rediculous, so thats why i said in my opinion go 30 bottom end, 3540 turbo, blah blah blah. You never actually said what you would like to do or budget. The only thing you said is that the car is auto. How is anyone going to give advice on little information.

Well you can work out the engine part, but being the auto thread, It depends what you want for power output. The biggest and easiest thing would be to get a shift kit. A simple stage 2 shift kit. This will help stiffer shifts and any flaring between gears and prolong box life and help it cope with any extra grunt. You need a bigger oil cooler, or well an external to the standard radiator cooled cooler.

Once those mods have been done and don't expect to pay more than $500 with everything fitted(if you can't do it for your self) the next place to go from there, get a higher stall converter. Try for about 2800 or there abouts, depending on turbo setup. That will let the engine to increase revs higher and get greater torque to the wheels, then it'd really start to cook. With 250-300rwkw and just that setup, expect 11's or at least low 12's and your box could/should handle it.

The rest is up to you.

Rob

Edited by Dj laBBy
  • 8 months later...

I need to find a bigger stall as my stock 2300rpm stall just doesn't cut the mustard with a highflow that isn't making any serious boost until 3500rpm.

I have heard that 34GTT's are 3000rpm stock.. is this true?

What other bolt-up options are there? (car is a series 2 C34 Stagea, pretty much same box as 34GTT)

I need to find a bigger stall as my stock 2300rpm stall just doesn't cut the mustard with a highflow that isn't making any serious boost until 3500rpm.

I have heard that 34GTT's are 3000rpm stock.. is this true?

What other bolt-up options are there? (car is a series 2 C34 Stagea, pretty much same box as 34GTT)

MV autos do a high-stall, coincidentally I have a whole setup for sale. :)http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/349136-eoi-built-r34-tiptronic-transmission-by-mv-autos

MV autos do a high-stall, coincidentally I have a whole setup for sale. :)http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/349136-eoi-built-r34-tiptronic-transmission-by-mv-autos

I need an AWD box and cbf swapping internals :P (box is still going strong though and was squeaky clean when we did the welsh plug mod).

How big is the stall you got from MVs?

Edited by bubba

I've got a 2800rpm mall stall from All Fast if your keen... I'm also located in Perth :)

Interesting but I don't think it will be high enough, I think I'd need 3000rpm to get it on to boost (or put my 3L in the wagon heh)

Can you PM me what it cost to get that stall built? Cheers :)

Also, is the torque converter the same between R33 and R34?

Edited by bubba
  • 2 months later...

Well went down to the Nostalgia Drags at the Perth Motorplex on Sunday... a 1pm start time wasn't the best for the car (considering the 36 degree heat) but it was still a good day. I had the car set-up to get my ANDRA licence (tailshaft loop, harness, isolator switch etc.), but when I got down there, for some very stange reason my race slicks and mags were rubbing on the guards - even though I have used the exact same tyres/mags in the past!

Anyways, car was pretty good all day considering I was only running the street tyres. Recorded my best time around 6pm when it had cooled down a little - 11.5 @ 121 mph, unfortunately street tyres only allowed 2+ second 60 foot time (I think it was around 2.1 - 2.2 seconds). This is with the car running around 350rwhp @ 15psi. Had planned on getting it tuned to 20psi the week prior, but didn't get my shit together in time.

Was a good fun day. Really want to break a 10 though (which I am very confident it will do once I get the slicks and some boost into it).

Edited by cactus
  • 1 month later...

hi guys newbie here,and was wondering whether some one could give me a phone number and address for mv autos as i want 2 buy some bits for my auto or atleast get some advice,thanks in advance for any help

YellowPages is your friend..

M V Automatics

The Automatic Transmission Specialist

1 Stirling Rd, Blackwood SA 5051, Australia

Phone number(08) 8370 0430

  • 1 month later...

guys i'm from the vl side of the fence, just spent over 3k on my auto to freshin it up, looking for alot more power, my auto is only rated around the 300kw mark, and wanting to search different options, i don't want a glide and more gears the better

these RE4R03A how much does a build to take the 450 kw mark cost to build, and does anyone know about them in aus, or where to buy the parts ? thanks

No hater of VLs. KEAS and MV automatics know these boxes well. I have a strong recommendation to Bob Grant Automatics. Where was yours built?Most of my quotes aimed at 350kw have been large.

Edited by WHITE gtt

No hater of VLs. KEAS and MV automatics know these boxes well. I have a strong recommendation to Bob Grant Automatics. Where was yours built?Most of my quotes aimed at 350kw have been large.

G&z automotive built mine! All keas parts, I have a 4 speed vl box with the works! Power is rated between 300 and 350, after taken him for a drive he said your driving style no more than 300, looking at having that on low boost and close to 400 on hi! And looking for a cheaper option than another 4k any1 had any luck with a c4.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Stop start traffic defines Sydney. Mine isn't a daily. The Ford version F6 4.0L6 and ZF 6 speed auto was a great combo. I think my rb25 with gt35, re403a trans, may be less so. One a idea is using stall on the converter to stall it into the turbos sweet spot. Accelerative performance in drag not circuit also relies on area under the curve, an auto is just floored on the throttle, while a manual loses thrust during the shifting. Plenty of fast manuals. It's preference and what you want to do with it.

Edited by WHITE gtt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...