Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting Stock Suspension: Why The Hell Am I Have Such A Hard Time?

Andi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I've taken out my rear previous suspension to fit some stock suspension in. Now taking out the coilovers was a breeze but getting the stockies in is proving HORRENDOUS! I just wanted to know if you're suppose to be pushing the hub down to allign the fork? When I say push I mean using ALOT of force/weight to get it down.

At the moment with the top of the strut in place with the two bolts on top slight done, the bottom of the strut (fork) is sitting way below the eye on the hub. To get them to 'line up' I had to pretty much stand on the hub to push it down and had to get someone to push the strut in place - does this sound abit extreme?

The force of the hub trying to spring back up is so hard that I can't properly allign the fork and eye at all now, so I can't get the bolt through completely.

Does something sound wrong here guys?

Cheers,

Andy

P.S This is on an R34 GTT.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Have you disconnected the front stabiliser bar? If not, then disconnect one link, doesn’t matter which one.

If it still won’t fit (not unusual) I use a long lever (1-2 metres) between the radius rod and the subframe. I push down on the lever with one foot and slip the shock eye over the bolt with my two hands. I have been known to sit on the lever rather than use a foot. A pinch bar works well as a lever, or a large piece of steel rod/bar. Don’t use a broom stick, they break and the wife gets upset.

:ninja: cheers :ninja:

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

like SK said.

i have also found that its much easier to jack the entire front or entire rear of the car up when dealing with suspension. rather than just 1 corner

or the entire car on axle stands if possible...

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers guys! Now this may be a stupid question, but from where do I jack the front end up? And where would I stick the jackstands? Do I have to do it one side at a time? i.e. jack left side up, stick in jack stand then do the right side?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Easiest spot to jeck the car is udner the tow hook at the front. Front engine subframe is also OK but can be hard to get at with some jacks. Stands should go under the engine subframe (not the chassis rails they can crush, and never the sump). If you get it high enough you can put a stand under both sides at once....all depends how big your jack is

Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

Posted
Posted (edited)

I wouldnt be using the front tow hook ;)

I always try to use the engine subframe, if you cant get under it with a jack just drive the car up on some planks of wood :D

Edited by MintR33
ISC-Performance Veteran

ISC-Performance

Posted
Posted

its always going to be a strugle installing stock sus after having low coilovers in your car....same as installing coilovers after having stock sus. When i change my coilovers in the r32 i get a mate to stand on the hub and i slip the bolt in...very common practise

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't bother with undoing the stabliser bar if it's a stock one?

I've done it so many times on my car it's just not funny. I'm never happy with the suspensions. First time, it was a bitch. I needed a friend.

Now, I can do it myself. moving the hub is easy. If you need it moved up, just use the jack and push it slightly. I find I dont' even need the jack.

I just use my arm and push/pull it. It's dififcult, but i'm not that weak.

R32gts-t Experienced

R32gts-t

Posted
Posted
I wouldnt be using the front tow hook ;)

I always try to use the engine subframe, if you cant get under it with a jack just drive the car up on some planks of wood :P

(serious question)

Why wouldn't you use the tow hook?

gts4diehard Rising Star

gts4diehard

Posted
Posted

Hi, if you are putting in the rear suspension then you may need to undo the bolts that hold the rear arms into the subframe &/or hubs.

These bolts are supposed to be tightened with the weight of the car on them, and now that you are changing the ride height they should ideally be retightened whilst the car is sitting at the new ride height.

The bushes in the arms torque when the suspension arms go up and down and changing the ride height will change the range of movement that arms go thru and will wear the bushes out quicker than necessary.

If you are planning on keeping the car for a while then its best to do it properly, bushes in hubs and subframes are Not cheap to replace.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...