Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I'm shopping for an upgrade to my alarm/immobiliser system from the one that was installed on my car when I bought it & would appreciate a few opinions of different places & systems people have had put in their car.

As far as places are concerned:

Strathfield is OUT, crap alarms & installation

Tonkins I'm doubtfull is much better & same goes for AutoBahn.

Complete Audio is only mediocre (Had my stereo system fitted there, not impressed)

I have also looked at:

Adelaide Pro Sound (Seems like a good installer)

autowatch systems

Tisonics (Not quite as sure about the install, but the product does look good)

Own brand

Ming (Don't seem too concerned about the customer)

steal stopper

Opinions for other places as well as these would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Edited by JazzaR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131617-top-alarms-installers/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i got my special alarm from interstate, then got a private guy here 2 install it. he was real good,knows all about them, and the alarm blew up so i went bk 2 him n he repaired it at no extra cost.

JOHN - 0405 702 292, tell him vange with the white line gave u his number. he should rem me.

he also would be able to tell u and get u the alarm u need or he suggests.

I second george @ adelaide pro sound. My alarm was a massive install... george, the team at aps made sure that everything was in working order, they spent the entire weekend on it and didn't charge an arm and a leg. Even got some interstate support in the form of chris rodger's the r34 specialist to finish off the remote start...

I've only got great words about george... tell them andy (that's me) sent you :D

I got a friend to install my alarm for me. very well installed. You have your choice of where to hide your alarm unit. Didn't spend a fortune.... or at least cheaper than Adelaide Pro Sound I should say ;). (can use the extra money to get other modules for alarm).

PM me if you are interested.

Thanks for the info so far guys.

Did like what I saw with george & his systems, biggest thing for me is as soon as you want to option up the autowatch system the dollars start stacking up big time.

Will look into the others too, but still keep him in mind.

I supplied my ebay car alarm to Graham West Workshops, and they called a bloke in. Was pretty cheap, think around $220 to wire up the full black-wired car alarm, the electronic boost controller and the Apexi SITC, oh and the direct wire feed to the new 040 fuel pump.

Edited by Tangles

Ok, just a couple more comments on the systems I have seen:

The Tisonics one has a digital tilt sensor option for preventing wheel theft. It calibrates itself each time the car is armed to prevent false triggering. I very much like the idea of this feature to prevent anyone floggin my rims. Any other systems that have this feature would be of great interest.

George at Adelaide Prosound's greatest claim when I saw him the second time was that he's 'never had a car stolen or towed away'. Can anyone vouch for this? It's a big claim, but if he can set them up that good however well there has to be something going for him on the installation side of things.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok guys went to GT Autosound today & had a bit of a chat with the guys there, very professional from a sales perspective & they seem to really know what they're doing too.

The car's been booked in for surgery there next week. Thanks for your help everyone :O

I didn't actually get the name of the guy, but I'd say he was the boss. I ended up going for the autowatch system, I'd already seen it & liked it, so when he recommended it too I went for it.

He offered it at a good price & could do other parts in the job that appealed to me. Will let you know how it goes, but sounds good :O

Edited by JazzaR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...