Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i blame that on every 1 else not keeping up when i gunned it so i went slow after that and early on in the cruise we had a spot of rain :(

yer those stagea drivers.. :P heheh

Ahh wasn't too bad.. Was fairly brisk at times then at other times it felt as if we were not moving. :/

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yer those stagea drivers.. :( heheh

Ahh wasn't too bad.. Was fairly brisk at times then at other times it felt as if we were not moving. :P

hey!! :D

i thought we did a pretty good job of keeping up...except for getting stuck behind a terribly slow 4wd going up mt lofty - double lines all the way. After that things picked up a bit... :D

Very nice drive, and i was very impressed to experience how well the stagea handles. Its just sooo much more than just a family wagon!! :O

I've came across a few posts where 'Tuna' (Who I believe is Martin Donnan) tested BOOST98 and found it provided more power over other PULP fuels.

I've just dropped $30 in an empty tank, I will check out if it affects ign. timing tomorrow.

Apparently cleans your fuel system right up so its recommended to change your fuel filter after a tank of the stuff.

Also I've found that Boost98 hasn't had any effect on how much my engine pings. Damn. However its good stuff its a lot cheaper than BP Ultimate and the rest and the station is only 100m from where I live. But I have a strange feeling that its only me that ever buys Boost98 there so I begin to wonder how old the stuff is.

my dad works for mobil and says it would be very rare that it would just sit there Busk2k

i sits in the storage tanks @ the terminals for ages b4 getting to the servo's 1 would suggest it doesnt have a shelf life

I've came across a few posts where 'Tuna' (Who I believe is Martin Donnan) tested BOOST98 and found it provided more power over other PULP fuels.

I've just dropped $30 in an empty tank, I will check out if it affects ign. timing tomorrow.

Apparently cleans your fuel system right up so its recommended to change your fuel filter after a tank of the stuff.

Im pretty sure the boost98 runs a little leaner so you probably need to richen it up slightly, but it can handle a fair bit more timing.

Let us know how you go joel. Dyno before and after???

A quote from Mr. Chops this time last year. :)

Ok, I have done a little bit more research on this fuel.

Speaking to Martin Donnon today, it turns out this fuel CAN be a good thing. If tuned for this "boost 98" every car he's seen has picked up power in comparison to regular 98 octane fuel.

There is a catch however. He showed me some dyno graphs, and just by changing to this from another 98RON fuel, the car LEANED OUT BY A FULL AFR POINT (ie 12.5-13.5).

This would explain the increase in performance experienced by owners of cars with factory style rich tunes, but if your car is tuned on regular 98, and is "on the edge" I would steer clear, it could give you problems.

A full point is a hell of a lot. :P

I dont understand. If its tuned to the edge then the Boost98 should do better. Isn't that the whole point? Ie winding in more timing/leaning it out. Although I bet if you leaned out most cars by a full AFR point you'll end up pulling timing, not adding it in.

Well thats just it...

If it has leaned the car out and still running the usual ign. timing and not pinging then there is definitely room for improvement by dropping the afr back down to 12-12.5 and dialing in more ign. timing.

All though mr. Chops is a reliable source I almost find it hard to believe that it will lean it out by a full point. I've richened it up by half a point (without wideband guestimating) and will see what ign. it will take.

All though last night I gave it a little squirt after dropping boost98 in and felt a little lean spot after 5000-5500rpm.

No det just had that lean feel if you know what I mean.

I guess to know the lean feel takes many years of being a fiddler. lmao.

Some interesting comments on this stuff.

I would have thought that the idea when using a higher grade fuel was to maintain the same AFR while producing more power. To do this you then have to advance the timing due to the longer burn time. The effectiveness of it then comes down to the fact that you need less of it to maintain the AFR, you can fit more air in the cylinder for a bigger bang & therefore create more power.

I have done a fair bit of reading & research as well as having a bit of experience on this subject, & this is my understanding on how it works. Leaning out sounds like a bit of a worry, like the fuel is actually a lower octane rather than higher. Confusing

Edited by JazzaR33

I ended up using the Boost98 up as quickly as possible as it made my external bosch pump noisy. :)

Some who have a bosch pump may know of the sound I speak of. It usually only makes the louder buzzing, airating type noises on hotter days after a long drive.

This fuel for what ever reason made the pump do it all the time. :laugh:

I didn't have any luck from a seat of the pants point of view richening up the mixture, dialing in more ign (managed to get another 3degree's in) and feeling more go, it still felt not as rev happy.

However.... Leaving ign and fuel as it is and dialing in more boost saw another 2psi being pushed in before I began to see signs of det and it definitely did feel better.

Dropping BP 98 straight in after saw increased levels of det with the increased boost level. The fuel pump also instantly shut up and has stayed quiet since.

Without a wideband I can't do anything.. Boost98 really does need to see the dyno.

If it wasn't for the fuel pump noise when running Boost98 I would stick with it. :laugh:

Also I've found that Boost98 hasn't had any effect on how much my engine pings. Damn. However its good stuff its a lot cheaper than BP Ultimate and the rest and the station is only 100m from where I live. But I have a strange feeling that its only me that ever buys Boost98 there so I begin to wonder how old the stuff is.

I used to buy it from there too busky :)

Just make sure you check your AF Busky. Martin tested and tuned a lot of cars on boost98 when the fuel first came out. He found that the car runs fairly lean with the extra oxygen in the fuel. Your knock might be ok but the cylinders and exh temp might be dangerously high.

I've been using Boost98 on the my R32 almost since I got the car. Great power gain after Martin tuned it for this fuel. I use Shell Extreme when ever I go to the track up here. The car seems to like the extra RON. You guys will love it when it's on the pump.

What Bosch pump are you using?

I'm running a 4.5yr old Bosch 910 thats done somewhere around 140,000-150,000km's.

Its a little long in the tooth. I'm going to have shaun fit an 044 intank as he is able to get them in there and keep them quiet. Bl4ck32's 044 is silent compared to my 910.

Well I was going to drop the Boost98 idea and wait for the extreme 100 gear but after driving today it appears at the higher the boost level requires .... 3degree's retard to stop det from the previous boost98.

I think i'll give this boost98 gear a go. I'll have a chat to shaun see when I can sort out a bit of dyno time to do the back to back.

I ended up using the Boost98 up as quickly as possible as it made my external bosch pump noisy. :P

Some who have a bosch pump may know of the sound I speak of. It usually only makes the louder buzzing, airating type noises on hotter days after a long drive.

This fuel for what ever reason made the pump do it all the time. :(

I didn't have any luck from a seat of the pants point of view richening up the mixture, dialing in more ign (managed to get another 3degree's in) and feeling more go, it still felt not as rev happy.

However.... Leaving ign and fuel as it is and dialing in more boost saw another 2psi being pushed in before I began to see signs of det and it definitely did feel better.

Dropping BP 98 straight in after saw increased levels of det with the increased boost level. The fuel pump also instantly shut up and has stayed quiet since.

Without a wideband I can't do anything.. Boost98 really does need to see the dyno.

If it wasn't for the fuel pump noise when running Boost98 I would stick with it. :)

You may find the main reason the pump was noisy is either 1 of 2 things: Either the Boost98 fuel is more prone to cavitation with the ethanol in it, or the ethanol fuel itself is less lubracative, meaning the brushes & bearings are wearing faster & therefore making more noise. Either way it doesn't sound like a good thing.

4 & a half years isn't that long for a fuel pump though should have a bit of life in it yet.

The other thing with the ignition timing, I read somewhere that ethanol actually burns faster than petrol due to it not being in great long chains like high octane petrol, so in theory this would mean you actually have to retard the timing a bit anyway for the same amount of fuel would it not?

Edited by JazzaR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...