Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the two cirlces on my tail lights- one is lit up for tail light,

and the other only when i brake. why dont i have both lit up

all the time like every other skyzer. is this a series 1 thing??

i have never ever seen another like this. someone please

tell me what the dealeo is

the two cirlces on my tail lights- one is lit up for tail light,

and the other only when i brake. why dont i have both lit up

all the time like every other skyzer. is this a series 1 thing??

i have never ever seen another like this. someone please

tell me what the dealeo is

mate i had this when i first got my series 2 33,

after some investigation i found that if you remove the globe of the light that only works when you are braking you prob find a fit of tape on one side just remove it and both will work.

thats what i did anyway.

its not a skyline without the four stove tops lit up :)

hope this helps

Spot on... when the head lights are turned on you should have all 4 cook tops light up. When you apply the break they become brighter... This is for a r33 gts-t

On mine all 4 light up brighter when I brake, which I think is how its meant to be!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
    • Yes, important point. Watch the Motive videos with Herman thickness testing the bores and deck. You do not want to push the unlucky (thin) block as hard as you can push the average block.
×
×
  • Create New...