Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I have the fedral brand tyres on the rear which are 255/40/r17. They cost me $175 brand new fitted. They seem to be okay. Good grip etc. I am not sure how long i will get out of them though. They were the cheapest i could find round my area. Got them from lillydale.

Nice tread design on them.. bit out of my price range though.

Yeah mate i wouldnt by them brand new a bit pricey, very lucky to find them at $85 each. Just keep an eye out for seconds some places have them just fortunate enough there is a guy in Brisbane who deals in second 17,18,19 and 20" tyres.

Hey guys. I have the fedral brand tyres on the rear which are 255/40/r17. They cost me $175 brand new fitted. They seem to be okay. Good grip etc. I am not sure how long i will get out of them though. They were the cheapest i could find round my area. Got them from lillydale.

i have the same tyres on the rear of my car atm similar price aswell.

i have nankangs on the fronts.

they seem to grip ok but they are a new tyre only a few weeks old, so until they loose a bit of there tread u wont really see much of the grip factor, but they seem pretty grippy for the price at the moment......

nankangs are about 30,000km old and still goin strong but they are on the fronts so not lossing traction at all which saves a bit of rubber.

i have the same tyres on the rear of my car atm similar price aswell.

i have nankangs on the fronts.

they seem to grip ok but they are a new tyre only a few weeks old, so until they loose a bit of there tread u wont really see much of the grip factor, but they seem pretty grippy for the price at the moment......

nankangs are about 30,000km old and still goin strong but they are on the fronts so not lossing traction at all which saves a bit of rubber.

Guys....get back on the subject.

New performance tyres under $300.

Not second hand for Fiddy bucks .

Or nankangs for hundred cause i don't go faster than hundred :laugh:

What is the point of saying..

I got a set for free given to me by my uncle and they are great and have lasted me 20000KM's

I think they are dunlop...lol :)

Hey guys well i took the advice of whoever said the falken 452's and im glad i did they are awesome. i dont know bout getting a set for $1100, but they are bloody good. i paid $326 per tyre, i only needed two, and they were 255/35/18. apparently they are falkens flagship tyre, overtaking the 451's, and im heaps happy.

i dont condone anything illegal and all that crap but just for measure, a corner i used to be able to take at about 80km/h i can now do at 110km/h and feel HEAPS more safer doing it, like no half sliding out or anything its like a go kart lol. wet handling is fairly good too, usually i avoided driving at all in the wet due to traction but i can use about half or two thirds throttle with no spin.

hope this helps anyone looking for tyres.

luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...