Jump to content
SAU Community

#######beware Of Venom Injectors######

Imtorqing

By Imtorqing,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Imtorqing Community Regular

Imtorqing

Posted
Posted

Back when I bought them there wasnt much to read about them but I can tell you now do not go anywhere near Venom Injectors.

I spent 700 when I bought them but had them sitting there as I was waiting for the engine to run in before fitting my new fuel system.

Showed my mechanic and he said Sh !t I would have them tested the flow holes are all over the place. So today I had them tested by MIS(Mobile Injector Services) and all six failed......ALL FU$%N SIX.

Four of the six leak and the flows which are tested at half cycle were ;

No 1 94ml per 30 Seconds

No 2 96ml per 30 Seconds

No 3 88ml per 30 Seconds

No 4 101ml per 30 Seconds

No 5 95ml per 30 Seconds

No 6 92ml per 30 Seconds

I have emailed a guy off of Ebay US which has his company TLF Performance on the box and who signed the postage declaration to see what can be done but I reckon I have done my dosh. I could resell them but I'm no F^%$N lowdown filthy prick.

If they didnt leak and the flows were generally on the money I wouldnt be as cut but damn it makes ya wanna cry.

ANYWAY BE WARNED IN FUTURE. I HAVE SEEN INJECTORS ON EBAY THAT LOOK JUST LIKE THEM BUT THEY DONT MENTION ANYTHING ABOUT BRAND I RECKON THEY ARE VENOMS.

ANYWAYS THATS MY BLAT IM OFF TO KICK MYSELF IN THE BALLS

CHEERS

Imtorqing :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132513-beware-of-venom-injectors/
Share on other sites
Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

You pay for what you get, should have spent the extra 200 and got nismos or a higher quality brand that are bound to work? Awell goodluck with recovery of finances. Its gunna be fun

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

lucky i only paid 300 for mine. 96lb/hr ones.

but... on a "as-nu" injector testing machine can only flow 1 litre a min

ie. i tested two 550cc injectors, and it couldnt suply enough fluid for them. so they were un evan.

to properly test the "flow capacity" they need to be done all seperatly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      f**king around with the bro
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
×
×
  • Create New...