Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

maybe the Ferodo DS3500? but i've heard there not very good road pads. You'd be the first i've heard that wasn't impressed with the 2500's though.

Apparently Prodjuct Mu pads are good, but again, only going on what I've read around the place on here.

theres RaceBrakes RB74's that alot of people use an recomend but say once over heated once there not real crash hot?

check out www.nismo.com.au too, they have a few options with brake pads an different temp ranges

hope this has been of some help, Cheers

Berin

I too am surprised about the comments with the DS2500's???

Due to current brake set up i am using endless NA-R's which i have found to hold up quiet well. They warm up quiet quick and will hold on for quiet some time before getting some ever so slight fade but usally only after 15min full pelt around the track. They would be a good pad for super sprint and then drive home on them road use.

I've swapped from RB74 to DS3000, found the DS3000 much better so far (but thats what i was expecting). I have also used the DS2500's on the M3 Driver training day, they run them in thier driver training cars on the track at philip island, they coped a beating all day, lap after lap for like 20-30 laps at a time with no fade or problems.... maybe the 2500's you had were fake or a dud set? find it hard to belive the bendix stuff was better.

Yep i have the project Mu level 900 on the front bendix ultima on rear, nismo steel braided lines, standard gtr calipers and RDA slotted standard size rotors and lots and lots of brake ducts.

I can get through a 20 minute track session with just the smallest amount of fade, pedal drops about 20mm. And the ambient temp was 40 C +.

BUT they dont come cheap.

  • 2 weeks later...

well.....hawk black = race pads = not for road use.

Thats how I see it, I am happy with their performance for race use, been using them all year, they seem better than the SBS pads I used before that. But race pads is a different topic I think.

  • 3 months later...

As a street/track pad my only experience has been with Ferodo DS2000 and have dfound them to be very good, but it has been my only experience.

PS-Sorry to bump something a few months old

Edited by JZX91-2JZ

I have project Mu pads and rotors on the front, they take a while to get up to temp, and are average when they are cold, but on the track they are great! I have only had the slightest brake fade, and that is after a lot of 200kmh stops.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...