Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have a used 3" Kakimoto R cat back exhaust that came off my R34 GTT.

It will fit all R34 GTT coupes. ie. lines up with the stock cat.

For all other skylines, should require a little modding to fit.

It is quiet, has a nice deep tone, and no drone. This is a quality system from Kakimoto.

This is in excellent condition, comes up nice and shiny as you can see.

If you are sick of your cannon, or tired of your loud/cheap exhaust note, this will be a good replacement.

$400

In Sydney. Please PM for further details.

Cheers

post-7128-1157263780.jpg

post-7128-1157263872.jpg

post-7128-1157263919.jpg

post-7128-1157263940.jpg

post-7128-1157264082.jpg

post-7128-1157264188.jpg

post-7128-1157264228.jpg

post-7128-1157264463.jpg

post-7128-1157513520.jpg

post-7128-1157513526.jpg

post-7128-1158495682.jpg

Edited by nuffsaid

PIcs added

And link to exhaust on Kakimoto website:

http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/01-02-02_K...02-02_KR01.html

JASMA approved and < 92dB, fair to say you wont get hassled by the boys in blue for this exhaust.

Edited by nuffsaid
Ive always wanted a Fujitsubo.

Can I ask what you expect to get out of a Fujitsubo over this one? I understand you're also not a fan of cannon's or noisy mufflers. I mean, do you expect it to be quieter, look better or something else? Surely it'll cost you a lot for no real tangible gains in power or performance?

The reason I'm asking as I'm also a fan of the Fujitsubo Legalis R. I'm currently looking at a custom build with a Magnaflow muffler cat back, but am worried I won't get the right look or it might be too noisy (or even performance!)... what was your experience?

i have had the exact same exhuast on my car cat back kakimoto system for the past 2 1/2 years. (i have a full 3"system but the catback part is kakimoto) good exhuast very quiet for 3" system with 2 mufflers. i have since had the middle muffler taken out of the system and a straight pipe welded in, sounds a bit more grumbly now, but if u are after a good exhuast with minimal noise this is the one. it was designed by kakaimoto to keep the DB below the legal limit.

GL with the sale free bump. :D

Edited by 85URK

It can as its simply a sticker. It is stuck on pretty hard, but I am sure a heat gun or something would be able to get it off. Polish it and itll look like it never had a sticker.

I think its nicer with that sticker there though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...