Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm having problems bleeding the clutch on my R32 GTST. I've bled it so there's only clean fluid coming from all three nipples... no air... but there is still absolutely no pedal feel. Does anyone know whats going on??? :ninja:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133213-clutch-bleeding-problems/
Share on other sites

Well i'm guessing there's a lot of air in them as i've just done auto to manual conversion so all lines were installed with nothing in them.

What do you mean by "back off the master cylinder" ?

For your future reference aftermarket (Protec & PBR) clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders can be picked up for ~$70 and ~$40 respectively.

When bleeding the R32's clutch I start with the master cyl, then the center box and then the slave, then do it again.

I've had a few issues bleeding mine in the past so I removed the center box and length of lines. I simply bent the metal line that runs in to the box back 180degree's in to the rubber hose that runs to the slave cylinder. Works well and actually provided better clutch feel that makes driving a ceramic clutch just that little bit easier.

Some have suggested this center box and length of lines are there to help keep the clutch fluid cool. I'm not so sure; what temps does the clutch fluid really see? A half decent dot4 boiling point is ~250-270degree's, if fluid temp was really an issue they would have set up something similiar for brake lines that see much higher temps that a slave cylinder.

For your future reference aftermarket (Protec & PBR) clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders can be picked up for ~$70 and ~$40 respectively.

Hey Cubes, where from?? I'm having similar issues as Psymon!

Edited by manage13

U can get dud new replacements though, as i found out. I replaced my master and bled it but it still had a slow leak ( put your foot on the pedal resting and it would drop slowly)

If the tiniest bit of dirt gets in, it can fark the seals.

I did buy a set for one of the guys interstate and posted them out to him, so i may be able to do it again if ppl didnt mind paying for my time/petrol to organise clutch master/slaves from all clutch and brake here in SA :cool:

I got a IBS slave cylinder to fit an rb20 box and it was about $30 from a brakes place (any brakes / clutch place that can get IBS should be able to get it)..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...slave+cylinder#

^^ All there

It's much easier to bleed if you spend $70 and get a one-piece braided clutch line as well to get rid of the twisty pipe.. then there is only two points to bleed.

Predator;

Instead of the braided clutch line I simply removed the centerbox and bent the line 180degree's in to the rubber hose that runs to the slave cylinder.

Works well and is free. :O

EDIT: Checked the link.. I've just repeated myself. lol

Instead of the braided clutch line I simply removed the centerbox and bent the line 180degree's in to the rubber hose that runs to the slave cylinder

you can do that as well if you like :O when going from auto to manual you have to track down / buy the extra bendy pipe.. in my case was easier for me to order a new one.

Psymon I hope you don't mind me highjacking your thread for a little while but I have a similar problem to you. Hopefully someone can help.

I have been bleeding my clutch for the past two weekends for more than a few hours. Yet the pedal pressure increases slightly however when the car is started the pressure of the pedal drops a little. I can’t see any visible leaks from the slave and I believe I have got rid of all the air pockets as I have bled the clutch more than a few times now. Can anyone hazard a guess to what my problem is? Has my slave had it?

Thanking everyone in advance.

hmm OK I guess it might be GTR only...it has a vacuum line from the manifold to a small booster at the master cylinder. When the car starts the vacuum makes the clutch pedal noticably lighter.

hmm OK I guess it might be GTR only...it has a vacuum line from the manifold to a small booster at the master cylinder. When the car starts the vacuum makes the clutch pedal noticably lighter.

Hi Duncan, thanks for the reply.

The clutch is much lighter when the car is running however I can't select gears. Also my clutch used to rattle when the clutch pedal was pressed down now I hear no rattle. Any idea??

Did you try bench bleeding the master cylinder?

Sometimes when you try bleed it in the car when the master cylinder is new, and you keep pumping it, the cups inside the master cylinder can turn inside out.

So when you bleed it fuid still comes out when the nipple is open, and when you close it and pump the pedal, it doesnt hold pressure and the piston just passes through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...