Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SK,

Your correct again i got the idea of some pic's you posted in the motor sport furum. The reason the rear ducts are so far forward is so i could mount the aluminimum strip to the bolts that are already in place from the roll cage. I was not sure about the fronts as i could not see any of that from your pics but i now have 2 ducts to each front wheel, so i hope that helps.

The reason i had to go 180 degrees on the rear is that unlike the Gibson GTRs which have the caliper on the rear of the rotor the standard set up sees the caliper mounted on the front. I wanted the air to be directed into the space on the back of rotor where the vains should be able to pull cool air through the rotor and this is the location i could do it.

On the front i already have a pair of ducting front the front of the car yet last time out i have a slight drop on the brake peddle at about 10 minutes of running. So i thought i would run another set to the rear of the front rotors to see if that helps next week.

Unless you have a trip planned to Dubai so you can purchase the alum duct in Sharjah i think it might be a little more costly back home. But yes i was home a few weeks ago and i did see it in Bunnings, what the duct is 90mm gas stove flue. And you will be surprised how strong and flexible it is. And the alum strip is just 25mm by 2mm and some alum rivits.

regards

good work mate. It will be interesting to see if it works ok as both the inlet and out let are facing the same way.

I need to get cracking on some fronts for mine too.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yep they worked a treat!

6 x 20 minute sessions in 40 + temp, no brake fade what so ever on standard calipers and Porject MU level 900 pads.

post-28646-1158415289.jpg

post-28646-1158415504.jpg

Little pic on me trying to catch Z06 corvette

Edited by tacker

Yer BB we are some what spoiled i guess as this is an F1 rated track. Although it does get a bit slippery with the fine sand being blown across it. And it was that way yesterday i caould see the sand moving across the track at certain points.

And another good thing is no gravel traps, the run off areas are all sealed and are huge one run off area at the end of the main straight is 120 metres before the inflated barriers.

You can do a search on it just type in autodrome and it should pop up.

And yes the brake ducts work a treat not one mm of pedal drop in 20 minutes of hard running in 40+ temps, quite simply the work very well if you are having problems with over heating brakes this worked a treat. I am really surprised just how much difference there was with 2 more ducts to the front and 2 rear ducts. I dont know which made the diff but as a unit they worked well enough to out last the porsche turbos brakes and they were lapping about the same times as me.

post-28646-1158470463.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...