Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo Keys + R33 Series 2


Recommended Posts

Hi, to all you R33 series 2 owners.

I was looking for a 21st bday present for a friend. Since he bought his car his always had only 1 key which was the original. He's tried to cut it but the key cutters have all told him they can't cut his key as he needs to order one from nissan.

I've checked the cars the nismo keys are suited for and the R33 is on there, although I'm not sure if its series 2 or not..

Can anyone confirm that it does indeed work with R33 series 2 skylines?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know what you're talking about hobo, R33's dont have any computer coded keys.

I got my nismo key, and a locksmith cuts it...my car is a series 2 R33. the latest possible model (1998) so if any R33's had coded keys, mine would have it.

Nismo keys are also discontinued now, so good luck getting one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know what you're talking about hobo, R33's dont have any computer coded keys.

I got my nismo key, and a locksmith cuts it...my car is a series 2 R33. the latest possible model (1998) so if any R33's had coded keys, mine would have it.

Nismo keys are also discontinued now, so good luck getting one.

By "coded" I don't mean immobiliser chip - I mean that the grooves of the key can be represented by an alphanumeric code and then cut to the original factory spec of the key, not by just copying the worn grooves directly (which would give you a brand new, but still worn key). The code will be something like "X5555", and a locksmith should be able to "decode" it off your current key if it's not too worn.

Google gave me this for further explanation:

http://www.keys4classics.com/html/FAQ_1.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah ok fair enough.

FYI, i took it to 1 locksmith and he cut it...but it basically wouldnt open the door. So i took it to another, and he said he had never seen such a poor cut job. he took a heap off it and made it work perfectly, and didnt even charge me for it :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
×
×
  • Create New...