Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dudes.

im stuck with what turbo to chose on my car.

its an r32 gtst with the following mods:

FMIC

turbotech boost controller

bosch 040 fuel pump

K & N pod

Dr.Drift Remap running 14psi.

my aim is around the 190-200rwkw mark. i currently have 169rwkw with the above-mentioned mods.

im stuck in chosing these turbos:

Straight RB20 Turbo Highflow

Highflowed/Bored Turbine housing to fit larger steel/inconel Turbine wheel and shaft.

Highflowed/Bored Compressor Cover to fit larger alloy Compressor wheel.

This makes the Turbo Hi-Flowed both Compressor side and Turbine side.

The upgrade bolts directly back on the manifold and existing exhaust.

The housings are acid dipped and sandblasted back to new quality.

This is a journal bearing highflow and is capable of making 210-220rwkw and is rated to 18 psi max boost.

1 bar of boost is available from as little as 3000rpm.

Straight RB25 Turbo Highflow

Highflowed/Bored Turbine housing to fit larger steel/inconel Turbine wheel and shaft.

Highflowed/Bored Compressor Cover to fit larger alloy Compressor wheel.

This makes the Turbo Hi-Flowed both Compressor side and Turbine side.

The upgrade bolts directly back on the manifold and existing exhaust.

The housings are acid dipped and sandblasted back to new quality.

This is a journal bearing highflow and is capable of making 220-230rwkw and is rated to 19 psi max boost.

1 bar of boost is available from as little as 3400rpm

i wouldnt mind boost hitting me at 3000rpm, but then again, the rb25 unit would have more mid-range and top end, correct? for driveabilty and whatnot, what would be better suiterd to my needs, and mods?

any comments (good or bad) are welcomed.

thanks guys

jabba

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/
Share on other sites

There is no difference between rb20 and rb25 hiflow. They get hiflowed to the same specifications. You can make boost come on earier, it all depends on intake setup, exhaust setup and state of the tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2471512
Share on other sites

There is no difference between rb20 and rb25 hiflow. They get hiflowed to the same specifications. You can make boost come on earier, it all depends on intake setup, exhaust setup and state of the tune.

There is actually a difference.

The compressor cover limits the size of the wheel that can be used in the R32 turbo.

The RB25 turbo and VG30 turbo have larger compressor covers thus larger wheels can be used that flow more air creating more power.

The R32 and R33 turbine housings are also different in size but do not affect power as much as the compressor cover size difference does as for an example a stage 1 and 2 wheel can be used in all 3 turbine housings- R32, R33, VG30 :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2471893
Share on other sites

Paul is talking about the GCG highflow and is correct the internals are bored out to roughly the same size and rated at the same HP.

But everyone does there highflows different hence slides answer

where are you getting the highflow done?

cheers

Edited by Munna1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2472831
Share on other sites

you want to hit boost at 3 grand but are fitting a larger turbo?

those two don't match up and you'll likely add more lag.

specially choosing a gt3040r, don't expect much before 4500 ish

I had one on my r33 with the smaller exhaust housing to bolt on to standard manifold making full boost by 4000 to 4500 on 18 psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2472889
Share on other sites

im leaning towards the rb20 hi-flow unit.

but will it run out of puff? spose it doesnt matter, coz im not gonna drag it in the near future.

sure the rb25 unit is more laggier, but it will obviously last longer.

i just want something with some get up and go,

i dont really want more than 200rwkw atm either.

so probably the rb20 unit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2472906
Share on other sites

Yes I agree with Slide . I think he is telling you that the RB25 and VG30 versions use a larger diameter compressor wheel with a matching larger compressor cover . These would accept 70-71mm compressor wheels more easily than the covers on the smaller RB20 type compressors . This makes the RB25's turbo (housings really) a bit more flexible with compressor options . So in other words unless you want to stick with 60mm diametre compressor wheels ie dinosaur T3 wheels or a GT28BB cartridge the RB25 is the go .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133351-turbo-choice/#findComment-2473552
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...