Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone check this engine number for me. Thanks guys.

RB26 D20423A

For the record I got this number from the shop at which I ordered my rb26 so i am not sure it is the right number. If this is not the correct format for an engine number let me know. I dont really trust this shop but they were the only ones who claim to be able to get an r33 motor so I am checking everything i can to verify if it is a 33 thanks.

nah that wont work... it should be like HCR32 XXXXXX or ECR33 XXXXXX for e.g

also the "D20423A" part doesnt evan fit into fast... u can only put 6 characters in :ermm:

Can someone check this engine number for me. Thanks guys.

RB26

For the record I got this number from the shop at which I ordered my rb26 so i am not sure it is the right number. If this is not the correct format for an engine number let me know. I dont really trust this shop but they were the only ones who claim to be able to get an r33 motor so I am checking everything i can to verify if it is a 33 thanks.

No problem, but maybe you need to change your ID >_<

Still looking for a GTR, this is one car that I have been looking at in japan...just wanted to check the build date before I pursue it any further...in the end I might have to my id. :)

Also can anyone do a breakdown of this code.

GGJPRQFR33ZDAGJ

Thanks again for the help guys.

Edited by 96_GTR

All it came up with is the info below. Obviosly need the vin for a compltete build date and so on.

Still looking for a GTR, this is one car that I have been looking at in japan...just wanted to check the build date before I pursue it any further...in the end I might have to my id. >_<

Also can anyone do a breakdown of this code.

GGJPRQFR33ZDAGJ

Thanks again for the help guys.

post-536-1150079002.jpg

All it came up with is the info below. Obviosly need the vin for a compltete build date and so on.

post-536-1150079002.jpg

Thanks for the quick reply again kjb_r33. Much appreciated. I guess I wasn't concise enough in my last post.

Is there a way to tell what the letters mean in the Model code GGJPRQFR33ZDAGJ that FAST has given.

Thanks for the quick reply again kjb_r33. Much appreciated. I guess I wasn't concise enough in my last post.

Is there a way to tell what the letters mean in the Model code GGJPRQFR33ZDAGJ that FAST has given.

all i can find on it.

Let's work through one... GGKBRTAR33VDAA---B

The first digit defines the body type... In this case G for 2 door Coupe... (It's B for 4 door Sedan)

The next 2 digits define the engine type and size (note: not the fact that it is NA or Turbo)... in this case GK for RB25DE(T)

The next digit (4) defines the drive type... In this case B for 2WD...

The next digit (5) is R across all R33's... I'm unsure of its significance... Some translation is required here...

The next digit (6) defines the model spec... (eg: GTS, GTS25, GTS4, GTS25T/M, GTS25/S, GTR, etc...) In this case it is T for GTS25T/M + GTS25/S (note: we still don't know if it is NA or turbo yet)

The next digit (7) defines the transmission... In this case A for 4 speed auto... (It's F for 5 speed manual)

The next 3 digits (8, 9 & 10) define the Model Series... In this case R33 for (duh) R33...

Now comes the tricky part...

The next digit (11) defines the induction system... In this case it's V for Forced Induction... (It's E for EGI / NA)... Some further translation is required here...

The next digit (12) can be either D or Z... I'm unsure of its significance... Some translation is required here...

The next digit (13) is A across all R33's... I'm unsure of its significance... Some translation is required here...

Shown below are all possible entries for the first 13 digits of the R33 Model Codes...

Note that different years have different designations for the digit (mainly to cater for the GTR's and GTS4's)...

R33 Model Codes (14-18)

Erghh... So many options...

The only one I have semi worked out is the last digit (18) which will be A if you have an Active LSD, B if you have ABS, and C if you have an Active LSD and ABS... There are heaps more options for digit 18 though...

It appears digit 14 is mainly focused on the wheel and tyre sizes...

It appears digit 15 is mainly focused on the electronic options (eg, ASCD (cruise), GT spoiler, etc)

I am unsure what digit 16 is mainly focused on...

It appears digit 17 is mainly focused on the AV options (eg, CD, MD, Stacker, etc...)

Edited by kjb_r33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...