New Garrett Gt3540 Internal Gate Is Here + Dyno Results

[Cubes]

Your not still sooking?

As said over on ct.com

It could have still be in cold ign retard and afr enrichment.. It could have been the way it was strapped down.. could have been.... who knows and who cares..

[SR910]

lol just having a dig

[rb26s13]

far out they are awesome results

[dangerman4]

how old is boostworx dyno?

why dont we organise a day at hi tek dyno.

at least we know it will be strapped on properly.

no wheel spin..

[Cubes]

Its a few years old. Hitek's as you know is basically bran spankin new.

SR910 was the only person that I know of that had issues on the day so really it was just bad luck.

MS75 with his Toyo 4.5ltr turbo made 391rwkw, Sky30 making 306rwkw on 18-19psi, Terry (x-jms owner) R33 making 350rwkw. So there was plenty of other cars there from other dyno's there on the day that made the power they expected.

I think SR910 just had bad luck on the day.

[Abo Bob]

Nice results Dangerman.

What compression ratio are you running in that engine?

Good luck with the auto. In my experience there is only about 15-20 rwkw difference between auto and manual. That's R34 though but the R33 boxes are basically the same.

[satanic]

Very interesting result... bookmarking this thread

[Cubes]

Good luck with the auto. In my experience there is only about 15-20 rwkw difference between auto and manual. That's R34 though but the R33 boxes are basically the same.

Good to know, not as much as I expected. The VL auto box's definitely suck a little more out of the motor then.

[satanic]

I'm surprised the auto box in this R33 hasn't gone BOOM yet... is it standard?

[Munna1]

how much difference does an auto make in regards to spool time? id like to see the results of a manual

[SLY33]

how much difference does an auto make in regards to spool time? id like to see the results of a manual

it would very much depend on the application, ie rb20/25/30 and the turbo, ie when the turbo is coming on boost. but due to the torque/stall converter in the auto it will give you instantly more revs earlier than a manual hence build boost quicker, not to mention it is easier to load an auto car up on its converter (equivalent to holding the car on the handbrake and slipping the clutch) and get boost happening.. throw a higher stall converter in the autobox and the effect is increased. Whilst your rolling and have some revs/load on board theres prob not as much difference i would say..

[shnaped_second]

Nice power output! interesting to see how long the auto lasts

[dangerman4]

heres a question for any one who has made the 300kw mark or close to it!

how much ignition timing are you running from 5000rpm and thru to redline?

on the current tune im only running 18 - 19 degrees. thats why i have used so much boost to make the power.

in a week or so i will put it back on the rollers with my new AFM and drop the boost, increase the fuel,

and increase the timing up into the low 20 region.

does anyone else know what timing i should aim for?

[Cubes]

18-19degree's really is pretty damn good considering the amount of boost, type of fuel, stock cams, stock inlet and exh. manifold.

So really you are doing well... I'm assuming the motor has been setup to run an 8:1 comp ratio?

Here's a little article on tuning turbocharged vehicles from innovative (the wideband people)

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/rich.php

What AFM are you looking at?

[dangerman4]

18-19degree's really is pretty damn good considering the amount of boost, type of fuel, stock cams, stock inlet and exh. manifold.

So really you are doing well... I'm assuming the motor has been setup to run an 8:1 comp ratio?

Here's a little article on tuning turbocharged vehicles from innovative (the wideband people)

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/rich.php

What AFM are you looking at?

i got a as new q45 from slide..

its only done a couple of thousand kays from new.

a bit weird! it has a 4 pin plug instead of the usual 3!

another member on here has been running up to 24 degrees advance, at less boost to make

more power. thats why i asked

[Cubes]

What was there setup with regards to inlet and exhaust manifolds? Cams? It may just be a different dyno reading? Was it an auto?

Exhaust? I forget what yours is.. 3.5" really is a must for over 300rwkw.

A couple of years ago I knew a bloke interstate running around with a GT35r .82 strapped to the side of his RB30DET. He was making ~300rwkw on 18psi. Stock exh. manifold, std plenum, 256duration cams, 5speed. He dropped on a 6boost looking high mount exh. manifold and picked up 30rwkw on the same boost.

What does John think? Its a little low in power compared to what others he has tuned or?

[dangerman4]

What was there setup with regards to inlet and exhaust manifolds? Cams? It may just be a different dyno reading? Was it an auto?

Exhaust? I forget what yours is.. 3.5" really is a must for over 300rwkw.

A couple of years ago I knew a bloke interstate running around with a GT35r .82 strapped to the side of his RB30DET. He was making ~300rwkw on 18psi. Stock exh. manifold, std plenum, 256duration cams, 5speed. He dropped on a 6boost looking high mount exh. manifold and picked up 30rwkw on the same boost.

What does John think? Its a little low in power compared to what others he has tuned or?

he has a high mount 3540 ex gate

standard motor but with a aftermarket plenum.

and his is a manual. so im not to concerned i was just curious as to how he could run 24 deg when im only on 19?

i guess the plenum would help keep the intake temp down a bit.

and my exhaust is only a 3 inch straight thru.

Johns happy with it in general..

it just comes down to more dollars on the dyno to get it optimal thru out the rev range.

Im curious as to why nismoid hasnt made a comment or shared his wisdom with us!

[Cubes]

I think it will have a little to do with the highmount exh. manifold and as a result the ability to run a decent collector with minimal sharp bends.

All aids in maintaining equal reversion across all cylinders. The motors VE would be up as the motor is able to expel the exh. gasses easier not to mention less of the exh. gas will be left lingering in the combustion chamber ready to contaminate and heat the intake charge, which essentially lowers the motors detonation threashold allowing you to run a little more ign timing to get you just that bit closer to MTBT.

As there's less exh. gas in the comb. chamber it also means the motors VE will be up. So more power on the same level of boost or another way to look at it the same power with less boost.

The exh. side of it really is critical as you start getting up over 300rwkw.

But playing with nice exh. manifolds gets expensive and begins to look non stock. UNLESS you can track down a HKS cast item and squeeze that in. They are well designed with no sharp bends with a reasonable collector; well as reasonable as you can get in a low mount.

Shall be interesting to see your results regarding more fuel more ign. timing; blow that article I posted above out of the water.

[discopotato03]

Some very useful points raised here IMO .

Firstly the exhaust manifolds , 300Kw is a long way from Nissans ask with the std iron lump which would have been designed to be compact and durable . The sort of volume and velocity of the exhaust gas flow needed for 300Kw really needs something better and the low cast HKS one is a pretty reasonable compromise of durable/still split pulsed/better flow paths/looks sort of standardish - well more than a fabbed high mount one anyway . I know they do a 3 into 1 on each side but at least the diametre increases as each branch is added .

Exhaust manilold collectors , I keep findind pics of fabbed collectors with this "power pyramid" thing in the middle of where the separate pipes merge . I was always told that making an exhause collector that flowed well in the wrong direction was not a good idea but some of these type manifolds hang off engines making good power .

I still keep scratching my head and thinking could a smaller trim compressor on that GT35R still work response wise as well but with the larger AR 1.06 turbine housing . Any of the 50/52/54/56 trim 82mm GT40 compressors can pump the air required so in theory less turbine load to pump the same volume of air but with less turbine inlet pressure (larger 1.06 housing) should reduce the problems in the chamber ie charge dilution and pre heating . With less of these two factors the ignition timing can probably be pushed a bit more so efficiencies should rise .

I have my own theories on running lower water jacket temperatures and good synthetic oils with lower viscosity and more emphasis on oil cooling to keep the engines head and piston crowns a bit cooler to hold the detonation threshold off a bit longer . I'm not suggesting anyone take this one as gospel so do it at your own risk . I've a bad feeling I'll be going through lots of RB30 blocks trying to get one that will take the piston oil squirters because these and the ceramic coatings may make a noticable difference .

Out of fingers cheers A .

Edited October 10, 2006 by discopotato03

[Cubes]

Hey Disco.

Dangerman4 is running an aftermarket manifold.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=55759

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=55758

All though its probably better than stock the method that has been used to on its collector and and 3 in to 1 method is less than desirable. The HKS low mount definitely has it up on the manifold Dangerman4 is running.

If you want some decent pics of the hks exh. manifold I could grab some for you. Throw the camera in macro mod and take a couple hundred shots getting all and every angle. Thats if you haven't seen in in person.