Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone else using the Cooling Mist kit?

Who's using boost input, AFM input, combination of both or perhaps you've modified the software?

Either way, absolutely zero knock.

Uses very little water/methanol on a highway trip and no more flashing yellow light.

You could be tempted to add even more ign.

Fantastic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/
Share on other sites

i had a basic cool mist setup on my vlt ran 20- 28 psi on a na convert and made 253rwkw on 20 psi also ran 13.2 @124 mph with the thing at hethcote (28 psi) (couldnt get it off the line with out smashing the shit out of axels)

good value but i wouldnt rely on the system mine was there to prolong the abuse of the motor. it worked lol

i also ran 17 degrees base timing with the thing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2490806
Share on other sites

i am a big fan of water and water/meth injection, i used it on my own turbo saab back when i started out and it went VERY well.

ive actualy got a new aquamist 2d system here that once i get the car fully sorted will be going on, cant beat the cooling benifits it offers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2491961
Share on other sites

best place is as far away from the tb as possible and just past the intercooler outlet, spraying before the intercooler will result in puddles of water in your intake system.

placing the injection nozzle far away from the tb is good because it allows for maximum atomization and mixing with the charge which results in cooler,denser charge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2493064
Share on other sites

best place is between the TBand IC as long as its able to be atomised properly,

before the IC is not good as the water can condense in the cooler.

edit: what he said ^ I was typing mine when he replied :)

also Ive seen silicon piping joiners with a nozzle attached through them, good idea if you dont like welding

Edited by midnight
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2493065
Share on other sites

one of my supra friends pieced together a kit using an RV pump as the pressure source, has an accumulator to keep pressure up...seems to work well.

the aquamist kit is a very nice kit, well made and robust...pump that comes with it is high pressure (100psi) and is purpose built.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2493846
Share on other sites

The pumps are typical Sureflow etc 12V water pressure units, usually set at 60psi.

With anti syphon, non-return valves, filters and block nozzle detectors, there's a bit of gear to mount neatly.

From feed back I've received, it makes no difference where the nozzle is mounted as there's a LOT of air blasting past it at WOT.

I used the J-pipe as it's easy to drill and tap.

Have experienced no missing or hiccups as the mixture is injected. You wouldn't even know it was running except for the warning light.

Try the coolingmist website for more info.

I have R33 fit up photos for anyone interrested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2494233
Share on other sites

I like water injection myself,read a bit about it but never used it.

How would a mech and electric water inj kit work anyway? I've read if it was correct for the electric kits theres a sensor for the injector etc.

on Ausrotary RICE RACING makes his own.Good results.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2495855
Share on other sites

have seen it setup on a 200sx

it used a hobbs pressure switch for manifold pressure

so i think it came on past 8psi

it was a car dr drift had done

it had a dash warning light for low water/meth

not sure where it injected it to, logical would say just before throttle body.

you shouldn't need to run this to take away knocking, unless you only have access to local penis fuel where you live (like the mafia). if you are getting yellow flashing engine light in normal conditions you need your tune fix, using meth/alky is only hiding the problem.

with this u can in theory dial in more ign timing and boost but once the water/meth is out or disabled you need to basically undo those temp changes otherwide it could detonate itself to death

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2495878
Share on other sites

you shouldn't need to run this to take away knocking, unless you only have access to local penis fuel where you live (like the mafia). if you are getting yellow flashing engine light in normal conditions you need your tune fix, using meth/alky is only hiding the problem.

with this u can in theory dial in more ign timing and boost but once the water/meth is out or disabled you need to basically undo those temp changes otherwide it could detonate itself to death

Unfortunately all our fuels are down on octane compared to the japanese cocktails available from their bowsers. We'll definatley be dialling in more timing - being careful and keeping an eye on things. It'll be interesting to see how it goes with 98 octane fuel + water meth.

Interestingly the knock levels come and go depending on the petrol station and I only use one brand of fuel. I guess it just depends on how long it's been sitting in the petrol station's tanks and what the owner wants to call it - I'm sure I've bought dodgy 98 octane fuel before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2496366
Share on other sites

Well a water injection kit of $850 once off and then its just the fluids costs which isnt much. As opposed to say buying 110 octane race fuel every race meet. Tell me which one would you buy and use and think is cheaper. I know one weekend of racing for us using 110 race fuel is not far off the price of the whole kit.

I honestly dont believe it is always totally masking the real problem, though im not saying it cant be used that way. Your car can be tuned to as good as it can get with your setup and anymore boost or ign advance would see too much knock and all conventional measures result is no reduction of it, then especially for a racing application its a relatively safe and cheap way of keeping knock down for safety or to allow for more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2496374
Share on other sites

ive found that water injecton is good for keeping temps down as well as egts when doing long pulls or track time.

it cools down much more than just the charge, cools the plenum, head, and the valves.

not to mention a car that has had water injecton run on it looks 100X better when torn down than one without, valves are usualy spotless and the head clean enough to eat off of, so it really does 2 things at once; cools the charge and cleans the head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2496389
Share on other sites

Most members don’t realise how sophisticated the controllers are.

It’s not just an on/off boost controlled switch.

That’s why I asked what methods other users had tried.

The controller has pump duty cycle and inputs from boost or AFM.

Also via laptop you can tinker with the software to adjust ramp rates etc.

As for costs, $288 for 200L of Methanol isn’t too bad at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2496434
Share on other sites

I'm using our xede to drive a PWM output to an aquamist control solenoid. The xede will have one MAP Bank that will be used for a lean cruise function where it changes the volatges on both 02 sensors so it trims fuel around say 15.5:1. The PWM output will be mapped in 3d with one variable being RPM the other an EGT feedback. The other switched map will be for big boost where the water injection is just mapped with boost(or AFM) and rpm. I will aslo have TPS based and MAP based boost control on this MAP Bank.

Edited by rob82
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2496464
Share on other sites

Well a water injection kit of $850 once off and then its just the fluids costs which isnt much. As opposed to say buying 110 octane race fuel every race meet. Tell me which one would you buy and use and think is cheaper. I know one weekend of racing for us using 110 race fuel is not far off the price of the whole kit.

I honestly dont believe it is always totally masking the real problem, though im not saying it cant be used that way. Your car can be tuned to as good as it can get with your setup and anymore boost or ign advance would see too much knock and all conventional measures result is no reduction of it, then especially for a racing application its a relatively safe and cheap way of keeping knock down for safety or to allow for more power.

Definately.

Also you don't have to spend $850 if you look at some US sites. Mine cost less than $500 delivered from a company over there, although the price has come up a bit since.

http://www.rx7store.net/category_s/89.htm

Cheers

Edited by gtst25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134151-cooling-mist/#findComment-2499669
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...