Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres a link to one of the companys that do urethane injection. you basically drill some holes in your side sills and b pillars and pour in the mixture that hardens inside and stiffens up the chassis.

these guys sell it for 19000yen and another 50000 to 60000yen for putting it in your car, or you can DIY but if you make a mistake while putting it in the sills it is impossible to remove.

All the positive reviews ive read are from people who've used it and had success. All the negative reviews are from people that havent tried but point out all the things that could potentially go wrong with it

lol, well I've done it but got no feedback yet, the car is awhile away from the track...we just used boring old heatproof expanding foam. Sills, A and B pillar and chassis rail (still to go)

did it on the ae86 without any other forms of bracing (only because it was gonna be acid dipped) as a test.

Flex was about 10mm along the B pillar with a jack on full height under the engine crossmember without any form of bracing.

with the urathane expanding foam in the door rails flex was 6mm.

with the roll cage mounted, the flex was 1mm.

I didn't find it doing wonders for the car, a good solid rollcage is much better IMHO. If you are gonna use it, make sure its not a polymer (urathane has many different variants) that absolbs moisture... although the whole idea of expanding foam is the air bubbles in it, which could be home to condensation.

obviously welding it would provide more strength and a permenant fixture...however if it needs to come out at somestage then its gonna be a bitch. Bolting might be the case then. Personally i would weld it in, but im a fabricator so im completely biased haha.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry Duncan, never answered. I've never done it and find the concept difficult to explain in the lack of structural improvement it will offer other than crush resistance. A cage and seam welding/added stiffening is the only solution.

The only ways to measure a real difference are to use a calibrated floor and point measure device or a chassis dyno. In a sloppy car it may help, but there are other more realistic ways of dealing with sloppiness.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...