Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got my car back recently, noticed a few things wrong with it.

Feels like its struggling and on 5 cylinders.

Before someone says coilpack it struggles throughout the rev range, low and high rpm.

I have gotten it back from the panelbeater since I got a respray. I also got them to install my fmic and highflow turbo.

Once I got it back I noticed that my turbotech boost controller was missing its spring, they must have opened it and lost it.

I have the usual mods like full 3" exhaust, front/dump, remapped ecu.

What is the worst thing that could happen if the boost controllers spring is missing?

I have removed it and put it back to the stock setup, still that didn't solve the struggling engine problem.

And when the boost controller was on or even the stock setup, on the boost guage it wont even go above 0. Its like its restricted from going past it because when you drive it, the gauge will quickly go to 0 then stop there.

Does anyone have any ideas?

The last resort I want to do is to give it to a specialist and all he would probably do is to go through the whole list of a 100k service to figureout the problem. Well thats what the panelbeater told me to do anyways, It might just need a tune

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134317-stock-boost-gauge-wont-go-past-0/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

When I drive the car it feels like the turbo isn't even working with the stock setup(boost) but when I had the boost controller on with the missing spring I do notice that the turbo just spools but never releases because most likely the spring isn't there.

So that marks out that the turbo is fine, how do you check if the wastegate actuator is working properly? Would I have to remove the turbo again? Hope its working because then I have to pay someone to remove it again

I checked and it seems like its all together properly.

When on neutral revving, it flutters now since I have tightened the intercooler hoses.

That should mean that the wastegate flap should be working correctly right?

i had a similar problem, but my was a easy fix there was a crack/leak in the vacuum hose leading to my boost guage. replaced it and it was fixed but same problem.

Boost wouldn't go past 0.

BUT i could hear there was leaking as soon as i opened the engine bay which didn't sound right.

well only other option is a leak in the hosing only seen during boost conditions

as GT shortie said, check thew vacuum lines are not split and are hooked up correctly... ie without controller - straight from IC pipe or plenum direct to the actuator

Oh ok thats good to know.

So that means my afm is fine

I guess I'll get my head stuck in the engine bay tomorrow and figure out whats wrong with it.

Do you think the afm or coilpacks have something to do with the car struggling throughout the rev range?

If it won't go past 0 then you have a leak somewhere. It won't go past 0 because 0 (on the gauge) is atmospheric pressure and when the compressor tries to pressurise the air past atmospheric, the pressure difference just forces the air out through wherever your leak is.

Coil packs will not restrict boost like that. Neither will the AFM.

Start up the engine, get under the bonnet, look and listen carefully for hissing and if you can't hear it at idle, open up the throttle a few times and it should become obvious.

Edited by govich

did the new turbo have a new wastegate actuator? if it did then it may be the problem. it may be stuck in the open position, or if it is adjustable, needs to be set to a boost level.

it may also be one of the intercooler pipes isn't in the silicone joiner properly, or the joiner is split.

also if there was no spring in the boost controler, that would just make it run at the boost pressure of the wastegate.

Yea I'll check it up once I get another turbotech boost controller.

Just waiting on delivery.

I can't seem to hear any leaks.

Maybe because stock boost only. I have a fmic and a highflow vg30.

Wouldn't 5psi-7psi to hear?

is the stock guage connected? (check that)

check for intercooler pipe leaks (use soapy water)

check for boost signal leaks or tubes undone (ie open to atmo)

is the actuator had no signal youd be in unlimited boost mode

Hi guys,

I finally got myself another turbotech boostcontroller. I just recently installed it, took it for a drive and still wont go past the 0 mark.

All the intercooler pipes and vacuum hoses have been checked. Seems to be all fine.

Does anyone have anymore ideas to whats causing the problem?

If the turbo was installed incorrectly, could this be the problem? Hopefully it is installed properly.

Does this look right?

post-27024-1158742687.jpg

Sure as God made little green apples, there is a connection somewhere in the intake plumbing that is not connected properly.

Had the same problem when I re-installed my engine after a rebuild.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...