Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok. The said RB25DET takes pride of place between the strut towers of a 97 Stagea. Car was originally designed to be all show no go, but... stuff it. Lets go.

Im sure we've all sat down to figure what the best bang for buck performance upgrades would be.

Exhaust. - 3" turbo back. Probably a BATMBL or BOs Important dump, 4" (?) highflow cat., resonator for 3-4000rpm, cannon muffler, something with a decent note.

FMIC. - 600x300x76, with 2.5" Aluminium piping, Through GKTech.

Highflowed standard turbo. (would sell my working turbo, and buy a highflow.) Had my eyes on yours, alex- I knowll you'll be reading this.

Computer (not sure whether to go piggyback or full replacement)

Should i be upgrading injectors?

AFM? A Z32...?

Cams? Ive heard good things about Tomei Poncams. Adjustable cam gears....? just the exhaust, apparently...

Do i NEED a pod filter, or would a K&N panel in the factory box be adequate?

Does a CAI make a difference on an intercooled engine, seeing as the air is just going to get heated passing though the turbo anyway? Id like to keep the inlet tract as straight and short as possible.

post-24895-1158500678.jpg

For $5000 (give or take $1k) what would be the best upgrades? needless to say, slotted rotors and S2 calipers with greenstuff pads are on the way...

Hope i get some decent answers, ill leave you guys with it.

upgrade your brakes before you make it go any faster

ok thx read the post bwud.

Power Fc + Z32 AFM + Injectors

Theres approx $2500 gone

They arent exactly the first things you would do though, are they.... no...

I had looked at power fc's, and have used one with the commander unit in a 180SX, i like the thought of being able to make modifications on the fly, with the knock sensor etc, injector load readout and so on, but dont think they have one for the RB25DET auto...

first things would be intake (cooler/airbox and cai) then exhaust. beyond that the stock RB25 ecu is dodgy so some type of fuel/ignition controller at minimum is required, so pfc with z32 afm (if it can work with the auto) or perhaps a safcII/ITC combo. upgraded fuel pump is generally a good idea at this time too.

there are no suitable stand alone ecu's for nissan auto

So the best bet would be a piggyback system or similar? most places ive spoken to have changed the subject fairly quickly when it comes to the ecu, which is why i thought id post here. and they all had different ideas of what i should do first, which is what im after.

Say someone said "heres $5000 to spend on your engine". what would you do to it?

turbo back exhaust $800

generic intercooler kit $450

cai set up $300?!

bosch/walbro fuel pump $250

SAFCII/S-ITC $500

DBA slotted rotors $400

GCG Hiflow/2nd hnd HKS turbo (low mount, ie GT2535) $1500

turbo timer $100

EBC $400

Thats $4700, then add tuning on top of that, $2-300 maybe?!

thats a quick list, hope it helps.

Edited by _8OO5TED_

the problem is that auto gear logic is in the main nissan ecu and all stand alone engine management systems for nissan are manual, so it will be harsh the auto box. you need a piggyback system

I think the lack of Power FC for nissan autos is simply cos there isnt a big enough market. Most people modify manual vehicles. They may be thinking they wouldnt sell enough to be worth the research and developement? Ive read in the stagea forum that there may be something in the works, but i assume it would come at a premium.

What is a good piggyback system to use? GReddy e-manage or something? computers are one of many things in my "not my strong point" category...

ok, well if you go the BOS dump and cat, then a cat back 3" system you are looking at about $1000-$1500 for that.

then $400 for a cheap cooler.

anywere from about $1000-$2000 for a turbo.

for the ecu you have a few options. they all work out to be about the same money. they are a greddy emanage ultimate, pfc or safc2/sitc combo. for any piggy system you'd really want a remapped ecu to base it on so that you don't have rich and retard mode. that setup will give you the best driveability as it should be close to the standard gear change (unless it was altered in the remap). then using the safc2 you can alter the amount of fuel going in, and run a z32 afm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...