Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Apart from the intitial purchase price difference in the RB20 to RB25, all other modification prices should be the same.

RB20's are a strong engine, no doubt. Anyone who drifts a stock engine is always pushing the engine design to its limits :-) and will come unstuck at some point in time.

" Will the RB25 make more grunt everywhere, yes. " is basically what I was saying from the start.

mind you it comes down to the history of the motor, my 2nd 20 was revving to 8000 rpm which is massive for a nissan motor.

my RB25 will probably fall over at 6000 with the tiny RB20 turbo on it!

Far out.. my 20 is running 20pound and is a daily... in 4th and 5th it runs some pretty stupid boost too... it runs rich as tho, 10.1 ratios throughout the range..... got me thinkin how long till she blows..

Edited by Josh
i think old matey who started this thread was actually going to be doing internals? unless i read wrong...

I understand your point of view, but i have killed 2 RB20s with only a little drifting and i consider them weak.

lets agree to disagree

May I ask what it was that killed the motors in the end? (IE what did they die from?)

im sorry but in my experience, the RB20 is a complete waste of time.

Short Stroke, no torque, small exhaust pulses...

its just not on... plus they are the weakest of all the RB engines.

If your going to look for a reliable 240 RWKW then go and get yourself a $900 RB25DE and start adding your fancy name brand parts...

an RB25 making 240 rwkw is a hell of a lot less scared and stressed than the equivilent RB20...

and if your on the coast, i know of a RB25DE (catch is its the 4wd model) for $750.

Heres a picture to prove my point...

holed.jpg

doesnt take me long to kill 20's

thats because u starved the bottom end of oil constant hi rpm keeps the oil in the head causing the pic u posted

(esp as u are drifting)

ive made 280rwkw on my old rb20det it did it for over 3yrs and i abused the engine somthing shocking not just reving the ring out of her but only changin the oil every 20-30,000km running no coolant just water

ive rebuilt a fair few rb20 and 25 and im sorry to say it the 25 doesnt quite stack up to a rb20 (but im just another roy :) i love my rb20det over rb25s )

because the rb20 has the weakest rods of the RB generation..

and the RB25DE is internally the same as the 25DET (save for the high comp pistons and oil squirters)

Do you understand that a turbocharger is just an artificial way of raising the compression of an engine? 10:1 compression on an RB25DE needs less boost to make the same power.

eg 1 bar boost on a factory turbo engine with 8:1 compression is effectively a 16:1 CR engine

whereas 0.6 bar boost on a 10:1 CR engine is effectively also 16:1 CR

another reason for choosing the RB25 is purely for displacement, as a 2.5 litre needs less boost and revs to make the same power as a 2.0 litre

what the u are jokin right

how can a shorter stroke rb20 corod (which is 3x thicker than a rb25 rod be weaker ) as they have the same grade metal in them

Sure its valves are smaller, they have to be the bore is a sh1t load smaller. Does the head flow as much, no way.

But compare it to say an SR20DET, sure the valves are smaller again, a function of the smaller bore, but based on the cc of each cylinder im betting the valve area is actually superior (Is it, i have never been bothered to work it out)

The RB20 bottom end is a good thing. And whilst its small bore and short stroke hurt it in the torque stakes. the small bore means a small, light pistons so its kind to its bottom end. It has bloody strong rods for a std car. Its bearings are basically the same size as its bigger RB brothers, and has lower piston speeds. So on paper the bottom end is damn strong.

So moving to the head and flow. They do not flow as well as an RB25. But put the same turbo on both engines and tell me that for the power figures that most of us chase there is a tangible difference over and above the fact that the RB25 enjoys a 500cc advantage and 0.5:1 in compression. If the head flowed that much worse an RB20 would not get near the figures the RB25 gets with the same turbo.

RB20 isnt as good, but it has advantages, and its disadvantages are as bad as ppl make out. The mods you do just have to play to its advantages.

Or you can go out and spend 10k on an engine that will smack everything....but it costs 10k :ermm: Id rather spend 10k chasing se4xy back packers accross Europe :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hard to say, just pop the rocker covers off and have a look if you think it's cammed. You probably need to replace the valve cover gasket/half moons anyways.
    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
×
×
  • Create New...