Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yep, or bring out the natural evoltion. the 2003 JGTC R34 GTR. i would reckon it would give the 2:06 a shake up. hell for old times sake slot skaiffe or richo behind the wheel. and hey, they JGTC car has *gasp restrictors on it too so only putting out around 500hp. drop those off it and give it around 650-700hp then we would really see a fast, late model touring car! :(

Now the R34 JGTC ill give you that one-even if the run vitually nothing from the road version 34GTR (inboard shocks-carbon brakes-any engine from the factory -the list is endless ) I was lucky enough to see a JGTC advan Supra at a Yoko test day at Qld raceway a few years ago and it ran 9-10 secs quicker than the V8 SC record- amazing piece of kit

Edited by gtr660hp

Actually I have a half serious question. From watching the Konica & even the main game races - half the cars ended up it the wall (Or it appeared to be about that many).

Are the V8's a particularly difficult thing to drive on the limit. I understand they (like most cars) need to be set up to be taily to get good lap speed, but even so.

I have a suspicion that the dirty secret of the formula is that they are actually not very pleasant cars to drive.

I have a track 32GTR and cant hold a candle to the 2007 Carrera cup car( mate of mine has 2 and leaves me eating dust at the track )-they lap 2:11 at Bathurst which is awesome for a 3.6l NA 400hp car-still say it makes the GTR rather slow looking

Want another equally meaningless comparison? Our F3 is much faster (QIR 1.07 versus 1.10) than the Porsche. With a restricted, 2 litre N/A engine and shitty narrow/small diameter Kumho control tyres. All for 1/3 the price of a Porka.

:( cheers :wave:

Now the R34 JGTC ill give you that one-even if the run vitually nothing from the road version 34GTR (inboard shocks-carbon brakes-any engine from the factory -the list is endless ) I was lucky enough to see a JGTC advan Supra at a Yoko test day at Qld raceway a few years ago and it ran 9-10 secs quicker than the V8 SC record- amazing piece of kit

mm, i've never seen one in action in person. but I'm going to head over to watch this years season finale at Fuji Speedway in about 3 weeks. should be great. the JGTC cars are great. like you say they are practically zero in common with road cars, but they are restricted in power using air intake diameter restrictors, and they do have success ballast and min weights.

I think its more a fact that the pace is so hot these days they have to drive at the limit for too long a period/stint. Naturally errors result.

Still say GTRs drivers are even easier to rev up then Ferrari fans. ;)

Fair point, but you can't really site fatigue as a factor in the 14 lapper support races, surely?

Is it just a case of "Got sideways & ran out of talent?" The Porkers didn't seem to suffer quite so badly.

I think its more a fact that the pace is so hot these days they have to drive at the limit for too long a period/stint. Naturally errors result.

Still say GTRs drivers are even easier to rev up then Ferrari fans. :huh:

Ha ha Im both a GTR driver and a Ferrari fan- no hope for me ;)

Want another equally meaningless comparison? Our F3 is much faster (QIR 1.07 versus 1.10) than the Porsche. With a restricted, 2 litre N/A engine and shitty narrow/small diameter Kumho control tyres. All for 1/3 the price of a Porka.

;) cheers :huh:

at least my meaninless comparison didnt compare an open wheel race car to a tin top

Fair point, but you can't really site fatigue as a factor in the 14 lapper support races, surely?

Is it just a case of "Got sideways & ran out of talent?" The Porkers didn't seem to suffer quite so badly.

Every driver pushes, and every driver has pushed too far and had a lose. Many at Bathurst, hell I recall Lowndes proving he is capable of silly mistakes on several occassions. Jim Richards has binned cars. Brock has binned cars, Larry. You could put almost every driver on that list.

So, “running out of talent”, whislt I hear what you are saying…it probably isn’t the tone required for the situation.

My main concern is flags, and how yellow means only no overtaking. Not caution and slow to ensure you are in full control of the car and ready for the sh1tfight that may lay ahead. Instead drivers hammer through local yellows scared of conceding or giving away ground on another competitor. It shouldn’t be allowed to happen

I have a Fujitsu V8SC car and let me tell you we are very limited in many areas also---live rear axles for fk sake and 10:1 comp ratio, 7500 limiter, in a 5 Litre pushrod V8 on 98 pump fuel. 2 wheel drive with shty little 280/680 17 in slicks and the cars are closer 1500kg with fuel and driver-so our 'Taxis' still arnt bad for what they are especially compared to 'mighty' GTR -I have a track 32GTR and cant hold a candle to the 2007 Carrera cup car( mate of mine has 2 and leaves me eating dust at the track )-they lap 2:11 at Bathurst which is awesome for a 3.6l NA 400hp car-still say it makes the GTR rather slow looking (I know 1992 is a long time ago but lets face it the GTR is old technolgy now compared to these new German rockets)

and saying lets strip out the GTR blah blah - well if thats your logic lets strip my V8 down to 1100kg and ill strap on 2 turbos if you want a level playing field

completely missed the point! if you want a comparison of GTR and V8 Falcadore on a level playing field, have a look at the Group A results where they couldn't handicap the GTR enough to stop it winning. If you think your supercab is ever going to be a fair comparison to a production based GTR you're as delusional as the people who thought the Monaro is better than Ferrari, Lamborghini etc based on the Nations Cup 24hr fiasco of a couple of years ago!

Actually I have a half serious question. From watching the Konica & even the main game races - half the cars ended up it the wall (Or it appeared to be about that many).

Are the V8's a particularly difficult thing to drive on the limit. I understand they (like most cars) need to be set up to be taily to get good lap speed, but even so.

I have a suspicion that the dirty secret of the formula is that they are actually not very pleasant cars to drive.

Correct- they are hard to drive-heavy under tyred car with a H patern dogbox and the handling of a cattletruck if not set up well-they also dont give much warning when about to let go due to lack of finese and feel and this really shows up at a place like Bathurst where if you are 5cm off line then you are a big chance to wall it

Now the R34 JGTC ill give you that one-even if the run vitually nothing from the road version 34GTR

yeah, nice one! - shall we count the number of components V8 Supercars share with the road going versions? :lol

completely missed the point! if you want a comparison of GTR and V8 Falcadore on a level playing field, have a look at the Group A results where they couldn't handicap the GTR enough to stop it winning. If you think your supercab is ever going to be a fair comparison to a production based GTR you're as delusional as the people who thought the Monaro is better than Ferrari, Lamborghini etc based on the Nations Cup 24hr fiasco of a couple of years ago!

you missed my point which was that the old Falcadore's are not to shabby at 2:08 laps for what they are- I have more than 1 GTR at home and really enjoy them but anyone who thinks GTR's in this day and age are the biggest baddest fastest thing around needs to stop reading 1990 wheels magazines and realise Expo 88 in Brisbane is over and that there are a number of cars on the market now that shit all over them-end of story

Correct- they are hard to drive-heavy under tyred car with a H patern dogbox and the handling of a cattletruck if not set up well-they also dont give much warning when about to let go due to lack of finese and feel...

ah, the pinacle of racing in Australia! never heard it summarised quite so eloquently!

you missed my point which was that the old Falcadore's are not to shabby at 2:08 laps for what they are- I have more than 1 GTR at home and really enjoy them but anyone who thinks GTR's in this day and age are the biggest baddest fastest thing around needs to stop reading 1990 wheels magazines and realise Expo 88 in Brisbane is over and that there are a number of cars on the market now that shit all over them-end of story

is your GTR basically a silhouette machine with a spaceframe chassis squeezed inside the monocouque body and everything purpose built for the racecar, or is it a production car with some tweaking? production block, gearbox, diffs, suspension design etc???

my point is that for all those advantages, 1 second per km faster than a 1992 GTR that was knobbled to within an inch of its life is nothing to brag about.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...