Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have an R33 RB25DET, it looks like it has leaned out on the sixth cylinder, so rebuild is required. I am looking at rebuilding the engine with Arias forged pistons 20thou oversized & might as well get a metal head gasket at the same time.

Now at the moment i got the standard turbo running 10 pounds, front mount, 3'' turbo back exhaust with custom screamer pipe, ebc, splitfire coil packs etc. I am looking for more power when im doing the rebuild so at the moment my list is;

Rebuild with Arias Forged Pistons & Metal Head Gasket

Apexi PowerFC

Nismo 740cc injectors

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Nismo fuel pressure reg

I am undecided on the turbo though, i was looking at either the Garrett 3071R or the Garret GT30R from sliding performance but i wanted some suggestions on a turbo to get. The car is a daily driver and reasonable boost response is required. I also may get some Tomei poncams depending on the turbo but i want to use the standard manifold and have an internally wastegated turbo. I was also looking at a HKS GT-RS but due to it costing 4000 i don't think it is possible at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135284-rebuilding-rb25det-suggestions/
Share on other sites

How much power are you chasing?

740cc injectors would be a overkill for a daily driven car (petrol) UNLESS you after 300+rwkw. 550cc should be right. remember its a 6cyl not a 4cyl like Silvias/Wrx's

for the money of HKS GT-RS the GCG Highflow (half the price) seem to be producing similar results without the price tag.

my 2cents

How much power are you chasing?

740cc injectors would be a overkill for a daily driven car (petrol) UNLESS you after 300+rwkw. 550cc should be right. remember its a 6cyl not a 4cyl like Silvias/Wrx's

for the money of HKS GT-RS the GCG Highflow (half the price) seem to be producing similar results without the price tag.

my 2cents

250rwkw daily driver with the ability to boost it up to hopefully 280rwkw to 300rwkw, i want to run 12s and in darwin with the heat you need alot of power. Has anyone run a GT3071R or GT30R on an RB25 and do they know approx what it makes boost at & what it is capable of power wise. I also don't mind spending a little bit more money to get get good parts, i don't to get a turbo and run it at close to max performance all the time.

Edited by S1R33

Yer im in the same process as you but my only last decision is the turbo and im leaning towards to Gt30r from Slide as its Internally gated & will bolt on to std manifold and should see around the 310rwkw with the correct motor! Anyone using a gt30r internal gated turbo?

How laggy will this turbo be, i have been told 1 bar boost at 3750rpm without cams, and if i got poncams how mcuh quicker would it spool.

Garrett GT30R 500hp T3 Internally Gated Turbo

Included :

GT30R 500 Hp Dual Ball Bearing turbo with 0.82 exhaust (optional 0.5 and 0.6 front cover) with internal wastegate

Wastegate (Adj actuator kit) with dual diaphram (reduces lag)

Wastegate housing kit

CNC Machined braket

Turbine:

84 trim 60mm GT30

Compressor:

76.2mm 56T compressor

Exhaust housings:

T3 inlet, T3 5 Bolt discharge 0.82 A/r, 3 bolt dump pipe flange

How laggy will this turbo be, i have been told 1 bar boost at 3750rpm without cams, and if i got poncams how mcuh quicker would it spool.

Garrett GT30R 500hp T3 Internally Gated Turbo

Included :

GT30R 500 Hp Dual Ball Bearing turbo with 0.82 exhaust (optional 0.5 and 0.6 front cover) with internal wastegate

Wastegate (Adj actuator kit) with dual diaphram (reduces lag)

Wastegate housing kit

CNC Machined braket

Turbine:

84 trim 60mm GT30

Compressor:

76.2mm 56T compressor

Exhaust housings:

T3 inlet, T3 5 Bolt discharge 0.82 A/r, 3 bolt dump pipe flange

Sounds like it bolts onto the stock manifold which is good. does it come with water and oil lines? do you need a custom dump pipe?

Have you thought about the HKS PRO-S kit comes with everything needed to bolt in place 300+rwkw is possible with cams and its probably less laggy.

cheers

Making 255-260rwkw at 18 psi without cams. get to 18psi between 3000 and 3500 rpm...

VG30 Zaust housing ar anyone?

the GT30r bolt onto the Stock manifold, But the Dump will need modified slightly & bradied Oil & water lines are required!

Gunmetalr33 when do you see full boost & how much power are you making?

Cheers

Alan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...