Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday

i just want to find out how many k's people are getting with a full tank of regular or premium unleaded out of their R32 GTS4 or GTS-T? i usually get around 300k's and thats mainly city driving... my car is basically stock

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135870-fuel-economy-question/
Share on other sites

really?

when i first bought the car i thought i should easily get 400 k's out of a full tank

the guy i bought the car off said it was running rich so i thought it definatley should be able to get more k's

but since i had the fuel pressure adjusted to what it should be their hasnt been much of a change and i thought something may have been wrong...

gday

i just want to find out how many k's people are getting with a full tank of regular or premium unleaded out of their R32 GTS4 or GTS-T? i usually get around 300k's and thats mainly city driving... my car is basically stock

hi there mine gets 350 around town boosting it heaps, freeway ,or highway up here i easily get 550 out of a tank ,keep in mind that its only an auto if it were manual i reckon it'd be even better :nuke:

how much of a change in fuel pressure was made? and was it up or down. if the pressure was raised then economy would get worse. i get about 350-400k's to about 45L (about 12L/100k's) out of my missus SSS pulsar (natro sr20), and turbo cars chew much more fuel.

also they run pretty rich from the factory. just get a remap or a safc2.

i dont know what the fuel pressure is set at now but i know greg from autosport lowered by 20psi i think...

ever since then i do get more k's because i used to struggle to get 250 k's but now it varies around 300 to 350k's depending on if i use premium or regular fuel...

currently my car has done just over 250k's with using half a tank of petrol and all that is highway driving

Edited by Tebie
ever since then i do get more k's because i used to struggle to get 250 k's but now it varies around 300 to 350k's depending on if i use premium or regular fuel...

you run your car on regular? seriously not a good idea. not a good idea at all.

I have a 32 GT-R, but i'll throw in a post anyway- on my last tank of fuel (1/2 Ultimate, 1/2 Optimax Extreme) i got 500km out of it, and just under half of that was cold start/city driving :)

gotta be happy with that from a GT-R

my friends Stag won't get better than around 300km to a tank no matter what

on the highway i get pretty good economy. i did a trip to brissy and back (about 380k's, with a little bit of WOT with 3 other people in the car (not high speed, just full noise up to the speed limit), and another 30km's of city driving, so 410km all up) and used 45L of fuel = just under 11L/100k's.

no i havent increased the boost

and it is basically stock....

this tank of fuel i got now, 1/2 was highway driving and the rest cold start city driving and i am just about to crack 360k's and i am basically out of fuel...

i usually seem to get less k's on a tank of 98 octane then 95....

what you also have to take into account is that you have a gts 4, which is heavier than a gts-t, and you are running your power through a 4wd system. this takes more power to turn than a 2wd system, so you would have to use slightly higher amounts of throttle to do the same speed as a 2wd.

ditto with every one else, even though mine is modded. If i take it up to the black spur and drive it around pretty hard i get about 320 bare min per tank, if i nurse it i can get 420, get about 380-400 in the city, which is sort of all-around driving

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...