Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday

i just want to find out how many k's people are getting with a full tank of regular or premium unleaded out of their R32 GTS4 or GTS-T? i usually get around 300k's and thats mainly city driving... my car is basically stock

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135870-fuel-economy-question/
Share on other sites

really?

when i first bought the car i thought i should easily get 400 k's out of a full tank

the guy i bought the car off said it was running rich so i thought it definatley should be able to get more k's

but since i had the fuel pressure adjusted to what it should be their hasnt been much of a change and i thought something may have been wrong...

gday

i just want to find out how many k's people are getting with a full tank of regular or premium unleaded out of their R32 GTS4 or GTS-T? i usually get around 300k's and thats mainly city driving... my car is basically stock

hi there mine gets 350 around town boosting it heaps, freeway ,or highway up here i easily get 550 out of a tank ,keep in mind that its only an auto if it were manual i reckon it'd be even better :nuke:

how much of a change in fuel pressure was made? and was it up or down. if the pressure was raised then economy would get worse. i get about 350-400k's to about 45L (about 12L/100k's) out of my missus SSS pulsar (natro sr20), and turbo cars chew much more fuel.

also they run pretty rich from the factory. just get a remap or a safc2.

i dont know what the fuel pressure is set at now but i know greg from autosport lowered by 20psi i think...

ever since then i do get more k's because i used to struggle to get 250 k's but now it varies around 300 to 350k's depending on if i use premium or regular fuel...

currently my car has done just over 250k's with using half a tank of petrol and all that is highway driving

Edited by Tebie
ever since then i do get more k's because i used to struggle to get 250 k's but now it varies around 300 to 350k's depending on if i use premium or regular fuel...

you run your car on regular? seriously not a good idea. not a good idea at all.

I have a 32 GT-R, but i'll throw in a post anyway- on my last tank of fuel (1/2 Ultimate, 1/2 Optimax Extreme) i got 500km out of it, and just under half of that was cold start/city driving :)

gotta be happy with that from a GT-R

my friends Stag won't get better than around 300km to a tank no matter what

on the highway i get pretty good economy. i did a trip to brissy and back (about 380k's, with a little bit of WOT with 3 other people in the car (not high speed, just full noise up to the speed limit), and another 30km's of city driving, so 410km all up) and used 45L of fuel = just under 11L/100k's.

no i havent increased the boost

and it is basically stock....

this tank of fuel i got now, 1/2 was highway driving and the rest cold start city driving and i am just about to crack 360k's and i am basically out of fuel...

i usually seem to get less k's on a tank of 98 octane then 95....

what you also have to take into account is that you have a gts 4, which is heavier than a gts-t, and you are running your power through a 4wd system. this takes more power to turn than a 2wd system, so you would have to use slightly higher amounts of throttle to do the same speed as a 2wd.

ditto with every one else, even though mine is modded. If i take it up to the black spur and drive it around pretty hard i get about 320 bare min per tank, if i nurse it i can get 420, get about 380-400 in the city, which is sort of all-around driving

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...