Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Apparently I have a 'modified' rack... from what I can gather it is moat likely an s14 rack.. Full lock does look a little more than usual, could be crazy castor messing with my eyes though.

What causes the steering shakes exactly? Does this happen with thicker aftermarket rods?

steering shakes at full lock are caused by the tie rod/tie rod end and the mount on the hub being pretty much straight... this in turn flexes back and forth and becomes very hard to bring back from full lock.

  • 1 year later...
guys - don't reackon its the tie rod end on the REAR!!!! i had same problem - it was the BALL JOINT!!!

you can use GTR etc in them... but they will still shit themselves as i found out - best off going non-hicas rear cradle swap!

Mine is definitely the tie rod end

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The front prop shaft from my GTR had very notchy unis, which obviously needed replacement but unfortunately uses the (usually) non-replaceable (staked) type.     A new shaft is something like $2K plus shipping from Japan.   I wouldn't even bother asking the local Nissan spares dept.     Rang Hardy Spicer but no go, which surprised me a little.     There's a place over Dandenong way that would make me a 'performance' shaft but un-necessary in my situation.   They claimed to be getting the equipment in to replace staked unis but couldn't give me a timeframe.   Anyway, long story short, found a place to do the work just 5 mins from me: https://knoxdriveshafts.com.au $420 (cash) and about a week later I have my driveshaft back.   Price includes balancing. Owner is a one man band working out of a shed in his backyard but from what I could see he's very well setup with some expensive equipment.  
    • Thanks. That's what I was after. One of the kits, the o-ring side is too big diameter. The other kit is a plate with a o-ring to seal and the hose connection offset.
    • oops that seems much easier lol. 
    • Are you using the factory rail?  Is there any reason you don't want to use one of the two you already have, they don't have to attach to the fuel rail directly.  If you 100% must have a FPR that directly bolts to the fuel rail, you could get a Radium setup. I use a radium fuel rail and the direct mount regulator, it is quite a sexy setup. 
    • https://www.google.com/search?q=adjustable+fuel+pressure+regulator+nissan+fuel+rail+adapter&sca_esv=6710113de42d5150&source=hp&ei=GhPbaNHfNZeinesPyPqEiQc&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaNshKnLkjQGMWYT5EyclmXEJm8ZXSWDb&ved=0ahUKEwjR1JOCjf-PAxUXUWcHHUg9IXEQ4dUDCCE&uact=5&oq=adjustable+fuel+pressure+regulator+nissan+fuel+rail+adapter&gs_lp=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_EFhqEHecdnjv2SBwYyLjU1LjGgB7XnArIHBjAuNTUuMbgH4UXCBwgwLjUuNTEuMsgHiQI&sclient=gws-wiz
×
×
  • Create New...