Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I searched but couldnt find anything.

At what power output does the standard fuel delivery system of the R33 GTSt S1 max out?

I'm spending a few grand on power in a couple months and it should put me at the 200-210rwkw mark, and the last thing I want is to have something cause the car to lean out at high power and damage something.

So I was thinking of also upgrading the fuel pump and FPR, maybe the injectors. Would it be worth it?

ECU will be piggybacked by an SAFC II (I understand the drawbacks and benefits of these so this is not the topic of discussion) - so what brands of FPR + injector types are too extreme for even the SAFC to adjust to?

Would the standard fuel system be sufficient?

Any help would be nice!

Edited by Mike_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136627-standard-r33-fuel-delivery/
Share on other sites

for 200-210 no need

stock injectors, rails, fpr are fine

just get a larger flowing pump

gtr32/33/34 should be fine

nismo should be fine

stay away from walbro

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

Hi bj. If your concerned about the cost of new injectors as i was all you need to do is to

purchase some red top injectors from an S15. I had to buy two set's of four, but the cost

was less than half over new nismo injectors. Try some Silvia web sites. I found mine on

Silvia club of NSW. Ive been told they are good for around 250 ish and thats without a

fuel pressure reg. Hope this helps. :yes:

for 200-210 no need

stock injectors, rails, fpr are fine

just get a larger flowing pump

gtr32/33/34 should be fine

nismo should be fine

stay away from walbro

Thanks for that

I guess my biggest concern is that my fuel pump or FPR might fail on me and I'll start running lean without noticing.

I guess the SAFC would give me this info so I'll just have to keep my eye on it :yes:

Cheers!

Hi bj. If your concerned about the cost of new injectors as i was all you need to do is to

purchase some red top injectors from an S15. I had to buy two set's of four, but the cost

was less than half over new nismo injectors. Try some Silvia web sites. I found mine on

Silvia club of NSW. Ive been told they are good for around 250 ish and thats without a

fuel pressure reg. Hope this helps. :yes:

Yeah S15 injectors would be my choice if I go down that path. If you do decide to get them make sure you get the RED ones NOT the purple ones. Some S15's come with one, some with the other, from memory.

What about pushing on further than that?

Ive got an adjustable FPR, SAFC2, bosch 040, going on my r33, and im thinking of getting a highflow turbo, what sort of power can be achieved by raising the rail pressure?

If you go for a highflow turbo you should get a Power FC, Z32 AFM, and injectors. Your tune will be greatly compromised if you don’t.

Standard pump will techinically be good up to 230KW but rarely doesnt (guess coz their age) You can try putting a relay on the fuel pump so it recieves a full 13.98-14 V rather than the 11.8 ir recieves with the stock setup. Make sure you dyno it to make sure it works

210 will be hard to get without rasing boost above/around 12 which inturn raises AFM to above 5V causing R&R

Nismo FPR would be best as boltfit straight in. Other systems usually require adaptors.

I'm runninng Z32 pump, Nismo FPR with stock injectors and put out 200. My AFM peaks at 4.9V so I'm at my limit with 11Psi boost (R33 S1)

whats wrong with walbro?

i bought a bosch fuel pump only to discover they dont sit right in fuel tanks and swapped it for a walbro

had no dramas

They do sit right in fuel tanks. I've fit many of these to many different models and you can run the tanks down til after the light comes on before it effects driveability. Download a Walbro flow chart and compare it to the Bosch flow rate. You'll see where your money has gone.

The Walbro pump pumps 250l/hour at 3 bar (Yay, that covers idle) wait til you need 65psi of rail pressure....that soon drops off to 150l/hour. The Bosch pump will pump 235l/hour right up to 5 bar (73.5psi) .

Thanks for that

I guess my biggest concern is that my fuel pump or FPR might fail on me and I'll start running lean without noticing.

I guess the SAFC would give me this info so I'll just have to keep my eye on it :)

Cheers!

Which is why with any performance car that is tuned for near max power you should have a power run done every so often to check up on afr's. I know of some that get one done every service. :nuke:

Which is why with any performance car that is tuned for near max power you should have a power run done every so often to check up on afr's. I know of some that get one done every service. :D

Yeah I'd say that's a good idea!

Even so I think I'll end up going the route of a nismo FPR and a GTR pump, but It's going to depend on money in the end.

Cheers for the help guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...