Jump to content
SAU Community

Unusually High Fuel Consuption


RT33
 Share

Recommended Posts

i had my engine rebuilt and now fuel consuption is about 18L/100kms and thats just cruising around. i also stall for no reason every now and again. people say the satlling is from the bov. its stmo venting, but i've had the bov for 3 years without stalling.

mods are fmic, bov, pod, exhaust

thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bad fuel consumption can be related to the head work.

I had Chris Milton Engineering here in Adelaide do the work on my head. I wasn't able to find a more highly regarded workshop here in SA, even though they did charge a little more I feel it was worth it.

All though you do have a stalling issue so there may be a little gremlin lurking.

Do the usual. Check afr's, o2 sensor, afm and ensure injectors are clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the head was high flowed before the rebuild, so thats not the problem.

could installing a 500hp walbro pump really be the cause for the unusually high consumption if there is no aftermarket ecu???

Porting (or as you call highflow) heads can result in poor economy.....

Smooth flowing heads that have been tidied up is whats needed for a streeter, not something that has been ported out to all buggery. But I do doubt the workshop did anything more than a simple tidy up as lots of headwork costs lots and lots of $$.

And no.. fuel pump won't make you use more petrol.

as I said previously...

Do the usual. Check afr's, o2 sensor, afm and ensure injectors are clean.

I had an issue where all of a sudden fuel economy dropped to 350km's to a tank. Turned out to be the injectors. Replaced them and all was dandy again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe something has happened to the fuel delivery system with the higher pressure from the new pump. Its either that or its a SENSOR, so

-as above, could be the oxygen sensor (in dump pipe),

-check airflow metre, clean it with non residual contact cleaner/brake cleaner

-may need to have your injectors flowed/tested etc, only costs around $100

-check the fuel lines, trace them back under the car, for leakage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Porting (or as you call highflow) heads can result in poor economy.....

Smooth flowing heads that have been tidied up is whats needed for a streeter, not something that has been ported out to all buggery. But I do doubt the workshop did anything more than a simple tidy up as lots of headwork costs lots and lots of $$.

And no.. fuel pump won't make you use more petrol.

as I said previously...

I had an issue where all of a sudden fuel economy dropped to 350km's to a tank. Turned out to be the injectors. Replaced them and all was dandy again.

agreed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did u touch any piping recently?

I swapped over my M's filter to Apexi's (3weeks ago) and forgot to tighten (or came loose from heat?) the clamps from AFM to turbo, subsequently caused 20L/100KMs and stalling problems, due to ecu overfuelling?

Anyways tightened every clamp and poof, no stalling .

The engine would hunt between 900rpm ans 1200rpm, then go down to 300, then stall ONLY when it was hot, and it felt so sluggish, like a cold start morning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i put the fmic on bu it had the same problems. so shouldn't be piping, but i'll check it out. also it used to idle at around 1200 and after about 600kms it idled at 750 but it goes up and down a bit.

i checked my bov to see if it opening up and it was fine. a friend told me i could be the wastgate not staying shut. could that be it? my turbo is leaking a bit from the seals. i had to leave it on till i got my hands on another one. im replacing it tomorrow so i hope it helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5          
    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...