Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wanting to put in an intercooler on a RB25DET. Does anyone have any advice?

1) are the r33 gtr and gts-t intercoolers directly interchangable without changing the mounts or piping?

2) is it posible for the RB25DET to make that crazy noise the RB20s in the VLs make? If so, what needs to be done to the engine for it to do this?

Any other general comments are appreciated.

-Enyoy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/
Share on other sites

The factory GTR intercooler is a great peice of gear, with proven flow ability but for the money, you would be better served buying a complete off the shelf kit from the likes of Just Jap as the GTR cooler will require custom piping and brackets etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/#findComment-2544853
Share on other sites

A cheaper option is putting an R34 GT-T cooler in. It's a side-mount like the R33 is, but the R34 cooler is thicker and flows a bit better.

If you're only chasing modest power gains I'd do this, otherwise go a front mount kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/#findComment-2545064
Share on other sites

why would you bother putting a gtr cooler on when you can get new coolers for $150 and cooler and piping kit for $400. and i think you should do a bit of a search first there are many many topics on coolers. also dont block off your bov for that "sik flutter noise" makes you look like a wanker, and isnt healthy for the turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/#findComment-2545095
Share on other sites

A cheaper option is putting an R34 GT-T cooler in. It's a side-mount like the R33 is, but the R34 cooler is thicker and flows a bit better.

If you're only chasing modest power gains I'd do this, otherwise go a front mount kit.

this would be pretty much a waste of time and money especialy if you live in a hot part of aus.

why would you bother putting a gtr cooler on when you can get new coolers for $150 and cooler and piping kit for $400. and i think you should do a bit of a search first there are many many topics on coolers. also dont block off your bov for that "sik flutter noise" makes you look like a wanker, and isnt healthy for the turbo.

the reason you would buy a GTR cooler and get custom pipeing is because of flow and cooling efeciancy. cheap kits are cheap kits. they dont flow, boost will drop and cooling is average.

also the cheap kits fit pretty average and most of the time the front bar has to be hacked to fit it where as GTR ones are made to fit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/#findComment-2546053
Share on other sites

this would be pretty much a waste of time and money especialy if you live in a hot part of aus.

the reason you would buy a GTR cooler and get custom pipeing is because of flow and cooling efeciancy. cheap kits are cheap kits. they dont flow, boost will drop and cooling is average.

also the cheap kits fit pretty average and most of the time the front bar has to be hacked to fit it where as GTR ones are made to fit.

GTR coolers are mass produced and have pretty poor flow capabilitys, the fins are very close together. also the $600 for a gtr cooler and then bout $400-$500 to get piping made up is goin to be better than say $350 kit from CRD in sponsors section. For most people unless your chasing like 1000hp or something stupid the cheap kits are fine, also the cheap kits have been tested compared to expensive ones and there is like 2% difference. For me $350 compared to over $1000 to not cut the front bar and have like maybe 2% flow difference just isnt worth it and most people will agree with that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/#findComment-2546074
Share on other sites

Is that the kit that requires to chop the battery tray or does it run the pipes through the existing pipes?

Cheers

Josh

I personally dont know what to do to mine at the moment as I have I think to take the battery and get a smaller one but maybe ill run the pipes to the exsisting one... anyone have better ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/#findComment-2546266
Share on other sites

actually,the r34 gtt sidemount is good for 200 odd rwkw/awkw and wont heatsoak too badly if you are using a stock/factory option front bar which is designed to flow in that direction. using the factory shroud will also help.

i think for ~$200 and DIY install (easy as piss), the r34 gtt cooler upgrade on an r33 is a great idea. this is what i have done second time around on my stagea, first time being a GT-AH cooler/custom piping :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136943-coolers/#findComment-2546418
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
×
×
  • Create New...