Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha everyone,

Just wondering if anybody out there could help me make my mind up on which fuel controller to get at the moment im running about 12 pound boost on a stock rb20det with a k+n flat filter and i think its putting a ridiculous amount of fuel in it and not giving me the power i deserve. I've been looking at the Apexi SAFC2 which looks like a cheap option www.apexi.com i know somebody who has a turbo xs fuel controller that runs off a game boy which is also good and works well and u can select four different maps for that but i dont like how u cant import it that one is on this site www.turboxs.com.au and the mother of all fuel controllers a power fc a 'stand alone' fuel controller i like the idea of not 'piggy backing' the old ecu and starting from scratch but its definitely more expensive. Especially for the rb20det because u need to buy the AP special type power fc which turns out to be about 1100 without the controller.

Yeh so if anybody has any experience with fuel controllers for the rb20det let us know.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137060-fuel-controllers/
Share on other sites

Sorry for taking so long to reply i thought knowone would reply because i put it in the wrong part of the forum, i think? but i have bought a SAFC (the first one) controller and installed it already into the loom(those wires are tight in there) and mounted it where the ash tray was i didnt mount it in there i mounted it on the outside sort of, hard to explain looks good but. As for the second hand ones coming i guess im abit late keep the other guys updated though. I got mine for 150$ which im happy with off my dads mate from work so very happy. I was just playing with it then and made it about 10 percent leaner on the full scale and noticed the engine ran smoother then i went to about 15 percent on full throttle range and ran smoother but i noticed a loss in power at about 3000 revs so i made it alittle bit richer then adjusted the ones on the side of that to make the graph smooth and gradual, and what a surprise it was smooth as through the whole rev range. It also backfired but dad said that was common after leaning a car and i should be very careful of ping. If anyone knows much about tuning these units anything at all let us know i want to save the money for the dyno run.

nice work Daniel, sounds like your getting your hands dirty and learning a fair bit at the same time.

Id call the guys at Top Racing or even Ken at Hyper Drive if you want the best advice.. but like any good advice be prepared to pay for it.

http://www.topracing.com.au/

how will a wolf go on a tiptronic R34...

I hear the R34 shifting logic is separate or someshit and the car is not as smooth when aftermarket management is added..

should i wait for these V4's or just get a safc 2 or a safc neo

Autos 34s can not use aftermarket stand alone ECUs so its E-manage(Fuel and ignition control) Safc(Fuel only but if you need to take much fuel you will have detonation problems with 34s as it also adds timing because its signal bender for the AFM and your telling the ECU you have less load )The best ive used sofar is Haltechs Interceptor with great fuel and ignition control and a boost control output but they cost more than a PFC but theres not much option with R34 Autos.Most shops in town inc us sell and tune any of these units.

how much info do u have on the old school Apex AFC's nib?

i looking at getting one of eBay for about $50 for my excel cause it runs pretty rich

(the old school one dial AFC's, and maybe the S-AFC multi dial ones - if u no what im talking about)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...