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OK...let me explain it again.

There were 4 different Turbo combinations that Garrett made.

The -7(N1),-9(SS) were close as far as Performance.these were the N1 and SS equivalents.

Both these Turbo's have a very similar housing size as Stock and are rated to be able to

support 300 and 320hp respectively.

The factory stock turbo's I recall were rated either to 260 or 280 each.But don't quote me on this.

Now the -5(GT2530) and -10(GT-RS) have bigger housing and are able to support 350 and 400hp respectively each.

In no way unless you want giant lag should you use -10.(GT-RS).......unless you have a built motor with high lift cams dialed in

buy a good tuner. Even then you will see power higher in to the rev range that makes driving around town stupid.

These are only good for drag and whiplash when they start to spool at 5000RPM. :P

Now most people here swear by the SS or N1...both of which are great for low power delivery and great therefore for street.

Responsive and a good package.......no mods needed slap them in and presto.....

OK......If you want some serious usable power mid to high range the -5's are good.

But I only suggest -5's if you continplate upgrading Computer,Cams,Dumps,Injectors at a latter stage

or if you are thinking it will be a work in progress.

The other option is to go 1 Single and be done with it...although this can be a lot more costly.

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2860-5's with dumps, injectors, afm upgrade, and pfc.. Making 350rwhp at the moment. Stock before, everything.

Even though my previous dyno run and the one after were done on different dynos with a slightly different settings used, When I plotted the old run over the new one the two runs start rising at almost the same road speed, with the -5's just walking away after max psi was reached.

On the road it doesn't feel much different in the low revs, but with a lot more urge in the mid, and without the umph slowing as much to revlimit (set at 7500rpm).

Hope my experiences help others.

James.

Here is the setup of my car R33 GTR:

Twin Garrett GT2860R-5

HKS Actuators

HKS twin 2.5inch exhaust (twin 2.5s from dump back)

Tomei Dumps

Tomei Poncams (260degree, 9.15 lift)

Top Secret Camgears

Apexi pod filters

SARD FPR

SARD 650cc Injectors

Walbro 341 fuel pump

Power FC D-Jetro

HKS EVC V5

Car goes in for a tune next Saturday. Once i get the figures, Ill let you know.

BlitzR33 and others, are you also adding your info to the RB26 aftermarket turbo sticky?

That keeps a summary of mods/power levels of RB26's in this section of the forum

  700HP-GTR33 said:
...OK......If you want some serious usable power mid to high range the -5's are good.

But I only suggest -5's if you contemplate upgrading Computer,Cams,Dumps,Injectors at a latter stage

or if you are thinking it will be a work in progress....

Spot on TK. 2860-5's All done minus the cams...430hp atw. The response Vs Power debate has been visited many times on SAU. In the end you have to sacrifice one or the other to a degree. If you want both get a supercharger.

It sounds like your after the -7's/GT-SS's but you may want mo powa later on...it's addictive apparently. I think the best way to figure out what works for you is to get a ride in a line with the set up your after. If you have a tuner that you use, ask him if he could help set up a ride with a fellow customer or failing that talk to someone in the club.

  Blitz_R33 said:
Here is the setup of my car R33 GTR:

Twin Garrett GT2860R-5

HKS Actuators

HKS twin 2.5inch exhaust (twin 2.5s from dump back)

Tomei Dumps

Tomei Poncams (260degree, 9.15 lift)

Top Secret Camgears

Apexi pod filters

SARD FPR

SARD 650cc Injectors

Walbro 341 fuel pump

Power FC D-Jetro

HKS EVC V5

Car goes in for a tune next Saturday. Once i get the figures, Ill let you know.

Picked up my car from the Tuner this morning.

Car was tuned for mid-range power. At 14.9psi it was 261.4awkw & at 20psi it was 292.1awkw...

I'm very happy with my results and I'm sure I can get a few more horses out of it with a little more fine tuning.

post-1165-1224561253_thumb.jpg

Edited by Blitz_R33
  R31Nismoid said:
Only 290rwkw from -5's ???

They should be up around 350rwkw @ 20psi.

Unless the turbos aren't -5's perhaps... Either way for the turbos you 'should' have, the power doesnt sit right at all

I know with those turbos I should be getting lots more power. I told the tuner to just tune it to mid-range power and not dyno-queen power. Plus with stock internals, I don't want to push much more power since I don't want anything to blow.

I'm sure down the track I'll be bored with 292KillerWasps and I'll tell the tuner to turn it into a dyno-queen...

Edited by Blitz_R33
  Johnny said:
^^^^ very nice power!

How does it feel on the street; much more laggy?

I haven't had a chance to drive it much..Just picked it up at 9:30 this morning, then drive it to work.. I did notice that boost kicks in just after 3000rpm so its virtually like stock turbos! Im still babying it in case something goes wrong :wacko:

  Blitz_R33 said:
I know with those turbos I should be getting lots more power. I told the tuner to just tune it to mid-range power and not dyno-queen power. Plus with stock internals, I don't want to push much more power since I don't want anything to blow.

I'm sure down the track I'll be bored with 292KillerWasps and I'll tell the tuner to turn it into a dyno-queen...

i'll try a bit clearer) that only 290rwkw @ 20psi. There is something wrong or not quite right.

Safe tune and a setup being 'down' easily 60rwkw are two different things IMO. A 'safer' tune you might expect 20rwkw or something.

Even a safe tune will net 330rwkw on a stock motor. Hell people make 380rwkw on them no worries on a proper motor and perfectly safe.

I just have a feeling that your tune would be 'lazy' with so little timing or something else too make such a low power output, that you would more than likely be better off lowering boost to say ~16psi and running 300rwkw by bringing the timing and whatever else up to match it.

Would make the car so different and much nicer to drive without really stressing anything at all as your running less boost to begin with :)

Same power with less boost would be much better than a lazy 20psi setup @ the same power level give

Your making less than GT-SS/-7's would on 20psi, and they are a smaller/more responsive turbo to boot on a 'safe' tune as well :wacko:

Do you have a graph with AFR's at all?

Thanks for the advice R31Nismoid. I didn't get a printout of the AFR graph.. I'll go and have a chat to my tuner this wkend...

I was reading this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb....html&st=80 adn noticed that a few of the guys are getting the same figures I'm getting.

Here is a post from 700HP-GTR33 who has similar mods to me:

  700HP-GTR33 said:
  Quote

96' GTR33

Garrett 2860R-5(HKS 2530 Equivalents)

Hks Split dumps

Tune agent manifolds

Nismo oil pump

Nismo water pump

Nismo fuel pump

Nismo fuel regulator

700cc Sard injectors

Iritop sparks

Split-fire coils

Trust oil cooler,with relocation filter.

Cusco catch can

Tomei air intake with Pods

3"Cat, Custom 3" exhaust,3" Resinator ohmy.gif with 3" Xforce Hotdog

Apexi power fc

AVCR boost controller

ARC FMIC

HKS Cam gears

@ 4 Wheels

Max Power 260.3kW @7183RPM (1.3 Bar)

Max M.A.P 223.6kPa @7055RPM (1.3 Bar)

Future plans> Z32 AFMS, Tomei Poncams 260 Degree with 9.15 lift .

Fitted RB25 AFM's

Tomei Poncams

@ 4 Wheels

Max Power 274.7kw @ 6963 RPM (1.3 BAR)

Max Torque 924.8 Nm @ 4803 RPM

Max M.A.P. 230.4 kPa @ 4665 RPM

The Boost controller was not set up correctly the last tune....so reflecting the before tune curve.

and a20089:

  a20089 said:
96 GTR V-spec

Tuner

Croydon

Power 266.5 @ 18PSI on new "fuel efficent" tune (low reading dyno)

Power 265 @ 17.5-18 PSI on full fuel (Croydon dyno)

Power 244.1 @ 15PSI on full fuel (Croydon dyno)

Mods

K&N panel Airfilter

Full exhust with 5" CAT

Pair Garrett 2860-5 turbo's

Apexi Power FC

Blitz ID-3 boost controller

Jun Cam gears

Stainless dumps

Edited by Blitz_R33
  Blitz_R33 said:
I haven't had a chance to drive it much..Just picked it up at 9:30 this morning, then drive it to work.. I did notice that boost kicks in just after 3000rpm so its virtually like stock turbos! Im still babying it in case something goes wrong :wacko:

Ahh i see but still at 3000rpm; not too bad at all.

I am changing my turbos soon and think ill be going gt-ss as i wont be changing camshafts like you. I really like the stock turbo response but im a bit paranoid about the stockers going pop on me.

Plus labour will be cheaper as ill add some tomei dump pipes at the same time.

Please keep us updated when you have the chance to take it out on a nice open road; would love to read your 'impression'

well done mate!

  Johnny said:
Ahh i see but still at 3000rpm; not too bad at all.

I am changing my turbos soon and think ill be going gt-ss as i wont be changing camshafts like you. I really like the stock turbo response but im a bit paranoid about the stockers going pop on me.

Plus labour will be cheaper as ill add some tomei dump pipes at the same time.

Please keep us updated when you have the chance to take it out on a nice open road; would love to read your 'impression'

well done mate!

I know nothing about cars (I'm a IT guy), but for a cheap mod I would strongly recommend adding CamGears & Camshaft to your list. they are a cheap mod and you get great response & power. I had them in my car alongside the stock turbos and the response was amazing. With only the cam gear/shaft, exhaust, filter I was getting 215awKW.

If you do upgrade cam gear/shaft go and buy the Garret GT2860R-5 turbos as they are much cheaper then the HKS GT-SS turbos. Get them all fitted at once because its going to save you on labor costs. Camgears/shaft + Garret GT2860R-5 turbos + tomie dump pipes will still allow you to drive the car with a stock ECU.

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