Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So it is all up and running now? What sort of power did you make?

yes i have been driving it for a month or so now... and no dramas!

f**k it goes hard too! ;)

However not yet dynoed... i need to purchase a power fc firstly... just pending $$$$$

yes i have been driving it for a month or so now... and no dramas!

f**k it goes hard too! ;)

However not yet dynoed... i need to purchase a power fc firstly... just pending $$$$$

Sweet when its all finnished I would love to come have a look at some stage! I want to see how the Turboed NA compares to a similar RB25det in a R32 :P

thats is f**king tight, wat rims are they (plus specs) good work.

hehehe thanks!!! They are my Work Meister Series 1's .... to be!!!!!!!!!!

Sweet when its all finnished I would love to come have a look at some stage! I want to see how the Turboed NA compares to a similar RB25det in a R32 :)

Sure thing!

It's a date! :)

looking good there tiff, i'll have to take a look at it one day too, wouldnt mind a bit of capacity in mine. those wheels look hot, i wanted those forever, the gram lights were cheaper but. keep us updated too.

update - just saw the numberplates, AK has got to be spewing

Edited by war32
  • 3 weeks later...

Unfortunately I will not be purchasing those beautiful work meisters any longer.. as the owner sorta smashed a gutter .... and well one rim is totally f**ked :P

However 51pry is going awesome!

The only things that have been replaced are.... the clutch master cylinder and one of the power steering lines... the engine is going sweet... no hick ups at all i am thankful to say!

She's getting a radiator flush, oil and filter change tomorrow... she's done just over 4000km's now

VERY VERY HAPPY with this set up!

I now have to find myself a new fuel regulator, an oil cooler...

and a power fc.. that is if my lovely bf doesn't decide to sell his 33 and sell me his .... :D

  • 4 months later...

WWWWWWWHAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT the !!!!!!!!!!!!

OMG>>>!>@!P"NIKFWE

what can i say but wow....that is quite a colour change......gonna have to catch up to see this things again...my god....HOT!!!

i am going the 25 conversion as well tiff!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...