Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone bought new tyres recently.

I need 2 x 235/45/17

i am not sure on secondhand but hey if its decent and cheap then yeah thats fine

bit otherwise and cheapish but decent tyres for everyday use that wont be waterskis

actually 235 or 255 cos the rears are 17x8 or 8.5

i got 2 decent toyo proxies so i prolly only need 2

does anyone have opinions on tyres

no not nittos too expensive at this stage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13768-which-tyre/
Share on other sites

thanks skyzer, 20,000 huh...hmmm thats roughly 12 months for me I think, that's how long my current crappy no name brand tyres have lasted ;) and they're really starting to wear on the insides of the rears.

Anyone know the price and availability on 2 x 235/45/17 and 2 x 255/40/17 Nittos? I heard Jash had some coming in and i think $370 was the price but I have no idea what sizes he was getting or how many.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13768-which-tyre/#findComment-273267
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Jon R33

my current crappy no name brand tyres have lasted :stupid: and they're really starting to wear on the insides of the rears.

Jon

I think even top quality tyres will wear the insides of the rears if you have a camber problem.

I'd say your car has been lowered without any camber correction.

Get Wilkinson Suspension to correct this before wearing out new tyres prematurely. You'll get better traction too.

NO_RESPECT

For a cheapish tyre try Kumho 512's from Wanneroo Tyrepower for less than $200 last time I bought. Sure there is better if you want to spend the money ,depends on how you use the car.

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13768-which-tyre/#findComment-273399
Share on other sites

paul hook me up man

pm with what you got nowdays

but i am guessing i will need to new rears, cos I will move the 2 toyo proxies to the front as they are like 75% or somefin,

so yeah hmm maybe even 255's

or 245's etc

anyways you know your S HIT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13768-which-tyre/#findComment-276499
Share on other sites

The Simex tyres are quite good for the rear tyres, if wide enough.

Get a 50/55 profile for the back.

For front tyres go a tyre with more sidewall strength, not simex.

If you got some $$ then the 540's are mint. Mat (whatsisname) has some and we took his car for a belt (very quick) and very little traction lost at all once warm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13768-which-tyre/#findComment-279027
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
    • HG's high flow is not "bolt on". The core is shorter, moves the comp cover rearwards in the engine bay. means you have to deal with the inlet plumbing a little bit. This is probably something to consider with every "bolt on" turbo anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...