Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wouldnt happen to have a spare inlet manifold from the gt500 engine?

what will you do for me dave if I quickly steal that inlet next time i'm near one? I don't think nismo will give me one for love or money. and i've given them both over the years and they've given me some nice shit, but GT engine might push it! hope you get some inspiration from the pics though. :P

  • 1 year later...

here you go you picture hungry animals. threw in a few nismo engine pics to make up for the slowness.

NISMO JGTC RB26 DRY SUMP SET-UP:

picture789hx1.jpg

picture792gy8.jpg

picture786gt8.jpg

picture791vj9.jpg

picture788qt7.jpg

picture790ir1.jpg

now that i see it's on a little dolly i should have wheeled it home :w00t:

I see they aren't to stressed about harmonics....full counter weight no doubt

yeah no real balancer as such, just a crank pulley to drive the water pump, alt and oil pump... everything would be finely balanced from end of crank to the clutch, not sure if the crank is full counter weight but it probably is.

Couple of things:

Have people who have done a full dry sump setup with a RB26 retaining the 4WD bothered take advantage of a shallower oil pan and lowered the engine? I can imagine it being a bit of a task especially to maintain the suspension and driveshaft geometry.

Is it necessary to run an oil restrictor to the head?

Hoping Brad (Risking) will comment on the first question.

You can't lower the engine much as the pan is not shallower where it goes over the A frame cross member and power steering. The sump box hangs in the abyss....

Matt

Good point; need to go under and measure.

yeah given driveshafts still going through the sump/diff in the front it's not easy to drop the engine much if at all. plus if the car is already really low (using just adjustable shocks) then driveshaft angles are already fairly bad.

if you went to a remove front diff (like a hilux etc) arrangement then you'd be in business. but such a hassle.

It's not hard to do at all.

I make the shafts with uni joints instead of constant velocities and put a good splined slip joint at one end to allow for length changes.

Never had a binding issue with lowered engines.

It also helps if you run a higher offset rim and move the hub outward utilizing longer front drive shafts. I think I know what mike has in mind hence the above suggestion he will understand.

The sump bulge gets cut off and critical parts of the diff casing need to be webbed into the pan.

Something I've also been stuffing with is a brace incorporated into the outter diff/sump flange which braces the diff casting to the block. It has seemed to help with the whole snapping diffs of with launching issue I used to have.

It's not hard to do at all.

I make the shafts with uni joints instead of constant velocities and put a good splined slip joint at one end to allow for length changes.

Never had a binding issue with lowered engines.

It also helps if you run a higher offset rim and move the hub outward utilizing longer front drive shafts. I think I know what mike has in mind hence the above suggestion he will understand.

The sump bulge gets cut off and critical parts of the diff casing need to be webbed into the pan.

Something I've also been stuffing with is a brace incorporated into the outter diff/sump flange which braces the diff casting to the block. It has seemed to help with the whole snapping diffs of with launching issue I used to have.

If you lower the engine you decrease your driveshaft angle which increases you track... so the proper way to do it would be to do what you suggested, you would not need longer driveshafts but the decreased angle might be an issue?

Why the move to uni's Brad? Sounds like a good idea RE: front diff casing.

Mr Baron: it is funny you mention removing the front diff. some mad fabricator in Sydney outlined plans for such a conversion :rolleyes:

Edited by bigmikespec

Not measuring the angle of the driveshaft it is hard to tell how much but it will vary. Want to get under and have a look this weekend. Also to check what Matt mentioned.

You are quite the argumentative type :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...